Fitz Roy - South face


32. The Washington Route

500m 45˚ 6b+ C1

Kate Rutherford and Mikey Schaefer (USA), 02/2011.

Description: From the base of the Californiana rappel 60 meters to the start of an obvious crack system that leads into a large west-facing corner which they followed for 10 pitches, to then head up the first system that veers right. Another two pitches of steep climbing lead to a couple of pitches of easier terrain and much simul-climbing to the summit. 650m altogether.

History. Starting from Piedra Negra they bivied in "La Silla Americana" (the col between Aguja de la Silla and Fitz Roy's south face) and made a second bivy in the summit, which they reached around 11PM. Both leader and follower climbed, without use of jumars. The first ascensionists believe the route will go free at 6c+.

Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 75˚ -to 90˚- 3), then across to La Brecha de los Americanos and La Silla Americana.

Descent. Francesa.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Roy south face

Fitz Roy south face

Fitz Roy southwest face