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Update: last updated on 09/11/2011.

Fitz Roy - South face

32. The Washington Route

500m 45˚ 6b+ C1

Kate Rutherford and Mikey Schaefer (USA), 02/2011.

Description: From the base of the Californiana rappel 60 meters to the start of an obvious crack system that leads into a large west-facing corner which they followed for 10 pitches, to then head up the first system that veers right. Another two pitches of steep climbing lead to a couple of pitches of easier terrain and much simul-climbing to the summit. 650m altogether.

History. Starting from Piedra Negra they bivied in "La Silla Americana" (the col between Aguja de la Silla and Fitz Roy's south face) and made a second bivy in the summit, which they reached around 11PM. Both leader and follower climbed, without use of jumars. The first ascensionists believe the route will go free at 6c+.

Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 75˚ -to 90˚- 3), then across to La Brecha de los Americanos and La Silla Americana.

Descent. Francesa.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Fitz Roy south face


Fitz Roy south face


Fitz Roy southwest face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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