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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - South face

26. Anglo-Americana

550m 45˚ 6a A3

Larry Derby (USA), Ian Wade, Guy Lee, Dave Nicol, Eddie Birch, and Julian Anthonie (UK), 11/12/1972.

Description. This route starts just a few meters left of the ruta Francesa. It is a completely independent line that initially follows a prominent wide crack left of the SSE spur. The crack, which is 20 to 50 cm wide is smeared with ice on its upper portion and therefore a thin secondary crack has to be climbed. This involves ten meters of precarious climbing on copperheads and three moves on bat-hooks to gain a jammed block. Another 20 meters of exposed off-width climbing lead to easier terrain and a visible snowfield. A series of difficult ice runnels lead to an obvious brake under overhangs. Here the route traverses left, across loose ice-up terrain to a bomb-bay chimney that is avoided by climbing hairline cracks to the right. A mixed traverse further left leads to the summit slopes. 650m altogether.

History. Their original intention was to climb the east face but upon having a closer look at it, they decided for the less intimidating south face. The route was completed with the use of fixed ropes. It is still unrepeated.

Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 75˚ -to 90˚- 3).

Descent. Francesa.

Bibliography. AAJ 1973 p. 477; Mountain 28 p. 18-21; Rucksack Club Journal 1973/65 p. 1-16.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Fitz Roy south face


Brecha east face


Brecha west face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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