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Update: last updated on 05/03/2016.

El Mocho. 1953 m.

El Mochito

Description

Cerro Torre’s Sancho Panza, thick and wide as Don Quixote’s squire. The steep and smooth south face is reminiscent of Half Dome. Its easy approach, its low elevation, its incredibly featured good rock and its protected walls provide some of the best free climbing terrain in the whole range. In the past few years it has become a very popular destination. Back in 1952, in an early visit to the range, Argentine Folco Doro Altan christened it Mesa de los Gigantes (table of giants), a fairy tale name that unfortunately got written over by later arrivals. Mocho in Argentine slang means without a top, an accurate description of its appearance.

Climbing history.

Jim Bridwell and Robert Staszewski did the first ascent in 1978 via the east buttress.

 

El Mochito

El Mochito is the smaller wall located right above the Niponino camp. It has a number of routes on it, some dating back to the 80s. There may well be lines that are not included here. Unfortunately record of ascents on this wall has not been kept until recently.

- Dominguez-Fernández: In 1989 Carlos Domínguez and Mauricio Fernández (AR) climbed a line in the right side, seven pitches, the first 6b, then motsly 5, with one 6a pitch half way up, a dihedral. They rapped the route. A route line or further details are lacking.

- Campagna: in 2000 Luca Campagna (IT) soloed a line in the center of the face, an obvious corner, six pitches to 5. It was repeated in 2007 by Jorge Ackermann and Lucas Jacobson who climbed a variation on the left, and found the second pitch top be 6b. This could be the same line that Carlos and Mauricio climbed in 1989.

- In 2006, when Marko Prezelj, Stephen Koch and Dean Potter climbed The Long Run, a link up of Mochito, Mocho and Cerro Torre, they climbed a line up the far right side of the face (250m 6a).

- In 2009 Jeremy Collins, Renan Ozturk and Cedar Wright's (US) climbed "No bad weather" (250m 6c+). Regarding the name, Cedar wrote: "[we] dedicated it to Roberta Nunes who in her life embodied this positive outlook regardless of what came her way."

- in 2016, Arturo Ceron (ES) and Nathaniel Sydnor (US) climbed a line on the far left side of the face, "La Luna de Miel", five pitches (250m 6c+/7a). The crux is the second pitch. The first two pitches may be often wet, but the the following three are very good. There are seracs right above it, but should ice fall, it goes in the gully to the right. Gear: double TCUs, doubles to #3, one #4, RPs, stoppers.


 

Photos (click to enlarge)


El Mocho - east face

 

 

 


El Mochito - east & south face


El Mochito - east & south face



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El MochoEast face 1. Espolón Este2. Voie des Benitiers3. Todo o Nada5. Bizcochuelo5.1 Jingus variation North face6. Grey Yellow Arrow14. The Approach Team line7. Little Big Wall13. Dulce de Leche8. Frader Pisafe9. Greetings from Bad Men10. Reggae Time11. AnitaSouth face12. Back to the FrontEl MochitoEast & south face The Long Run Dominguez-FernandezNo Bad WeatherCampagnaLa Luna de Miel

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