1. Rubio y Azul
350m 6c
Ermanno Salveterra, 3/1/1994.
Description. Follows a logical line on good granite throughout. Climb a red colored dihedral to reach the summit of the first pillar. Then an easy crack on the left that leads to the big chimney and an elegant layback crack that is the crux of the climb. The initial dihedral is often wet, but one can always climb the spur immediately left which Italians first climbed during an early attempt to this tower.
History. Salvaterra dedicated the route to Argentine Horacio Bresba, who died while descending from Cerro Fitz Roy in early 1994. The name refers to his blond hair and blue eyes. Ermanno soloed the first ascent and repeated the route solo a second time, hoping to climb to the col of Patience. He bivied in the summit but bad weather forced him to retreat the next morning. It wasnt until many years later in 2005, that this traverse was completed, when Andre Grmovšek and Silvo Karo climbed the route and link up they called Slovene Sit Start.
Approach. Niponino to Noruegos.
Descent. Via the same route for the first two rappels, then straight down, skiers right.
Bibliography. AAJ 1995 p. 208-209; Alp magazine 111 p. 18; Desnivel magazine 96 p. 93; High magazine 142 p. 40-41; Annales GHM 1994-95 p. 53; Rivista della Montagna 167 p. 8; Bolletino SAT 1994/2 p. 30-31. |
