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Update: last updated on 12/10/2015.

Aguja Media Luna

1. Rubio y Azul
1.1 Cacciatore
1.2 Variation
2 La Media Docena

It was named after the shape that the glacier takes around it: a clear half moon. In 1994 Italian Ermanno Salveterra made the first ascent via a route he christened Rubio y Azul.


3. Donini's Anatomy

Small but very slender spire between Aguja de la Medialuna and Punta Pereyra. It was christened by Silvo Karo in the early 2000s.


Photos (click to enlarge)

El Mocho, Aguja de la Medialuna,

Torrisimo and Punta Pereyra.

Aguja Medialuna - east face

1. Rubio y Azul

350m 6c

Ermanno Salveterra, 3/1/1994.

Description. Follows a logical line on good granite throughout. Climb a red colored dihedral to reach the summit of the first pillar. Then an easy crack on the left that leads to the big chimney and an elegant layback crack that is the crux of the climb. The initial dihedral is often wet, but one can always climb the spur immediately left which Italians first climbed during an early attempt to this tower.

History. Salvaterra dedicated the route to Argentine Horacio Bresba, who died while descending from Cerro Fitz Roy in early 1994. The name refers to his blond hair and blue eyes. Ermanno soloed the first ascent and repeated the route solo a second time, hoping to climb to the col of Patience. He bivied in the summit but bad weather forced him to retreat the next morning. It wasnt until many years later in 2005, that this traverse was completed, when Andre Grmovšek and Silvo Karo climbed the route and link up they called Slovene Sit Start. Other solo ascents: Marc-Andre Leclerc, via the 1.2 Variation, free-soloing everything but two moves. In the second half, for a pitch or so, he climbed a crack (6b) right of the original line.

Approach. Niponino to Noruegos.

Descent. Via the same route for the first two rappels, then straight down, skiers right.

Bibliography. AAJ 1995 p. 208-209; Alp magazine 111 p. 18; Desnivel magazine 96 p. 93; High magazine 142 p. 40-41; Annales GHM 1994-95 p. 53; Rivista della Montagna 167 p. 8; Bolletino SAT 1994/2 p. 30-31.

1.1 Cacciatore

200m 6a+ A1

Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston (USA), 4/2/1988.

Description. Climbs a discontinuous crack system right of Rubio y Azul to reach the obvious shoulder half way up. It involves some sporty free-climbing protected by two bolts and one pendulum to reach a second crack.

History. This was done long before Rubio y Azul was climbed. Today it can be climbed as an alternate start to Rubio y Azul, although the original Salvaterra line is far more appealing.

Bibliography. AAJ 1989 p. 178.

1.2 Variation

In 1987 Italians Monica Malgarotto and Maurizio Venzo climbed 9 pitches following a line left of what later became Rubio y Azul. They retreated 100 meters below the summit of Medialuna.

In early 2007 Argentines Ariel Martorelo y Horacio Gratton climbed the lower five-pitches of the Italian attempt as a variation to Rubio y Azul, encountering difficulties to 6c.

The second pitch has a couple of bolts in a wide, flake like crack. This line is the an easier alternate start to Rubio y Azul.

Bibliography. AAJ 1989 p. 176; Lo Scarpone 1988/5 p. 6-7; Desnivel magazine 36 p. 17.

2 La Media Docena

Jorge Ackermann, Tomas Aguilo y Nicolas Benedetti (AR), 02/2014. Seven pitches with difficulties to 6c. The route is devoid of any fixed gear except for two fixed stoppers. They rappelled Rubio y Azul.


3 Torrisimo - Donini's Anatomy

Colin Haley and Jon Schaffer completed the first ascent of Torrisimo in early 2015. They christened their route in reference to rumors about Jim that have circulated for years. They climbed it via the NW face, climbing two pitches (6a/b) to reach the ridge, and one more to get up the tower itself (6a C1), climging its NW edge. More info here.


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Aguja Media LunaEast face 1. Rubio y Azul1.1 Cacciatore1.2 Variation2 La Media DocenaTorrisimoNW face 3. Donini's Anatomy


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