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Update: last updated on 19/02/2016.

Fitz Roy - North face

16. Pretty Bird

1000m 7a+ A0

Pete Fasoldt - Jonathan Schaffer, 1/2016.

Description. The started at the lowest point of the wall, following a 1985 attempt by Marcelo Aguilar, Vincent Banderet and Paul Maillefer, joining briefly the Afanassieff, to then head to the Gran Hotel which they reached after 16 pitches (5 to 6b+). In the headwall above they climbed a massive off-width crack, 12 pitches -three in common with Clínica de Aventura- with difficulties to 7a+ and one rest in a cam, the only aid move in the entire route. At the top of the headwall they joined the Afanassieff which they followed to the summit. In all they climbed 1,600 meters of which 25 pitches are new.

History. Fasoldt and Schaffer bivied at the Gran Hotel twice, on the way up and on the descent, rappelling Tehuelche. Somewhere in the upper part of the route they run into a hummingbird, clearly lost, about to die likely, hence the name of the route: “Pretty Bird”, a quote from the 1994 film "Dumb & Dumber", from a scene in which one of the characters strokes a dead bird with it's head wrapped in Scotch tape.

Marcelo Aguilar, Vincent Banderet and Paul Maillefer spent three days on the lower half of this line in 1985, reaching a hihgpoint just shy of the Grand Hotel, some 700 meters up. An accidentally dropped a pack forced to retreat. They rappelled along the line of Los Últimos Días del Paraíso, which is why Jakofcic and Lacen initially thought they were not climbing virgin terrain.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Gear. Doubles to 3, one 4, one 5.

Descent. The first ascent party rappelled Tehuelche.

Photos (click to enlarge)

attempt north face

Fitz Roy northwest face

attempt north face

Fitz Roy north face

attempt north face

Fitz Roy north face

attempt north face

Fitz Roy north face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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