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Update: last updated on 02/02/2012.

Fitz Roy - South face

25. Boris Simoncic

500m 45˚ 6a C2

Bogdan Biscak, Rado Fadjan and Matevz Lenarcic (Slovenia), 22/12/1985.

Description. This obvious line in the center of the south face climbs a series of steep dihedrals to join the Anglo-Americana not far from the summit slopes (650m altogether). Several ledges in pitches seven and eight provide appropriate bivouac sites. It is still unrepeated. It has been inadvertently descended by several parties that have failed to find the preferred Franco-Argentina descent route.

History. After fixing ropes on the lower 300 meters, the first ascensionists completed the route in a 44-hour round trip from base camp. They named the route after Boris Simoncic with whom Lenarcic had attempted Fitz Roy the previous year, just before falling to his death on Les Courtes.

Bulgarians Damyan Cholpanov, Nikola Levakov and Grigor Vatev did the second ascent in 01/2012.

Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 75˚ -to 90˚- 3).

Descent. Francesa.

Matevz Lenarcic (1988) Smisel in Spoznanje-Patagonija, Obzorja Maribor, Slovenia; Planinski Vestnik 1986/8 p. 363; AAJ 1987, p. 109 to 113.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Fitz Roy south face


Brecha east face


Brecha west face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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