Fitz Roy - South face
25. Boris Simoncic
500m 45˚ 6a C2
Bogdan Biscak, Rado Fadjan and Matevz Lenarcic (Slovenia), 22/12/1985.
Description. This obvious line in the center of the south face climbs a series of steep dihedrals to join the Anglo-Americana not far from the summit slopes (650m altogether). Several ledges in pitches seven and eight provide appropriate bivouac sites. It is still unrepeated. It has been inadvertently descended by several parties that have failed to find the preferred Franco-Argentina descent route.
History. After fixing ropes on the lower 300 meters, the first ascensionists completed the route in a 44-hour round trip from base camp. They named the route after Boris Simoncic with whom Lenarcic had attempted Fitz Roy the previous year, just before falling to his death on Les Courtes.
Bulgarians Damyan Cholpanov, Nikola Levakov and Grigor Vatev did the second ascent in 01/2012.
Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 75˚ -to 90˚- 3).
Descent. The faster and more direct Franco-Argentina descent is recommended.
Matevz Lenarcic (1988) Smisel in Spoznanje-Patagonija, Obzorja Maribor, Slovenia; Planinski Vestnik 1986/8 p. 363; AAJ 1987, p. 109 to 113.