Fitz Roy - South face
400m M8 7a+ C2
Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň , 1/2016.
Description. Climbs a line left of the Canadian Route, which it joins after 13 pitches, continuing along this and Boris Simoncic to the summit (500m altogether). The first four pitches were iced and hence were dry-tooled. The following pitches climb cracks finger size to off-width size. The pitches go as follows: M6, 40m; M7, 35m; M7+, 50m; M8, 50m; 6b, 45m; 7a+, A0, 40m; 6a, 50m; 6b+, C1, 50m; 6b, C2, 50m; 6a, 55m; 5, C2, 45m; 4, C2, 40m; 6c, 55m, then it joins the Canadian Route and in turn the Boris Simoncic Route.
History. They climbed alpine style, bivying on top of pitch eight and at the summit.
Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 60˚ 3).
Gear. doubles to #4, one each #5 and #6, TCUs, stoppers and 10 pitons.
Photos (click to enlarge)
Fitz Roy south face