Fitz Roy - North face
14. Tehuelche
14.1 The Hoser Chimney
1300m 30° 6b+ A0
Carlo Barbolini, Massimo Boni, Mauro Petronio, Angelo Pozzi, Mauro Rontini, and Marco Sterni (Italy), 17/1/1986 to 150 meters from the summit. Doug Byerly (USA) and Rolando Garibotti (Argentina), 8-9/12/1996 to the summit.
Description. This superb route in the center of the north face has three very distinct sections. The lower section comprises 400 meters of discontinuous cracks and several slabs, which have somewhat fragile rock (flaky). This is followed by 200 meters of easy snow ramps that gain the base of the magnificent 600-meter long upper dihedral known as Diedro di Marco (after Sterni, who lead most of it). This dihedral, which is the most significant feature on the north face of Fitz Roy, involves excellent climbing on steep rock, that can be done mostly free, with the exception of short icy sections where aid is required (a free ascent at moderate grades –7a?- should be possible). There is a comfortable bivy ledge -the Grand Hotel- at the base of the dihedral. The first pitch above the Grand Hotel is a hard offwidth crack.
History. Barbolini and partners fixed about 900 meters of rope and climbed to the end of the difficulties, about 150 meters from the summit and 60 or more meters left of the Afanassieff. Here bad weather forced them to retreat. Marco Sterni, who led the hardest climbing on the route and was only 21 years old at the time, wanted to retry, so as to finish the climb, but was not able to convince the rest of the team. Sterni led the crux offwidth pitch using only a number 3 friend. Half way up it, with one shoulder and one foot stuck in the crack, barely holding on, he managed to place a bolt. This is the only non-belay bolt in the entire route. Barbolini and partners named the route Tehuelche in remembrance of the original inhabitants of the Patagonian plains, who today have disappeared. They also named their expedition “Chalten 85” to honor the name under which the Tehuelches knew Fitz Roy. First integral ascent and alpine style. Byerly and Garibotti climbed alpine style, completing the route in two and a half days round trip from the Torre Valley (up Hombre Sentado down Boquete del Piergiorgio).
Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.
Gear. Note that screws and hangers on several bolts are missing, including the bolt on the crux pitch. Bring Petzl 8mm selfdrive (Spit) screws to replace them.
Descent. All the belays are equipped, with close to 50 pitons and 35 bolts, so a descent of the route is very straightforward.
Bibliography.
Barbolini: Alp 20 p. 38-49; AAJ 1987 p.210-212; Lo Scarpone 1986/10 p.10-11.
Byerly: AAJ 1997 p. 117-122.
|
Photos (click to enlarge)
Fitz Roy north and west face 
Fitz Roy north face 
Fitz Roy north face 
Fitz Roy north face |
14.1 The Hoser Chimney
400m 6a M5
Dana Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson (USA)
Description. Yet another fine way to climb the north face. Provides what is likely an easier alternative to Tehuelche by avoiding the Diedro di Marco and therefore the offwidth. Climb via Tehuelche to the Grand Hotel, and from here follow a marked system to the right of Tehuelche and the Francesa Cara Norte. The start off the Grand Hotel ledge is along a left-facing corner on the right side of a “stem box” leading to an imposing roof, after which the route climbs right into a chimney system. This portion of the climb was dripping wet when first climbed and offered 6b adventure climbing at its finest, with a tricky M5 chockstone pitch at the top. After ten new pitches the route joins the Filo Noroeste route, along which it continues for 200 meters to the summit. It is remarkable that with this Tehuelche to Hoser Chimney link-up such a big rock face can be climbed at relatively moderate grades (1300m altogether).
History. Drummond and Wilkinson climbed alpine style, with one bivy just 4 pitches below the summit, which they reached at 9:30 AM on their second day. They had hoped to climb an independent line from the bottom but in the pre-dawn darkness failed to see any obvious lines on the lower face and therefore followed the starting pitches of Tehuelche. Hasn’t been repeated yet.
Gear. The first ascent party managed to climb the mixed sections high on the route with aluminum crampons and one light axe, but steel crampons and two tools, as well as a couple of ice screws are likely a better choice.
Descent. Down the Filo Noroeste, to Francesa Cara Norte and then to Tehuelche. |