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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - North face


14. Tehuelche


14.1 The Hoser Chimney


1300m 30° 6b+ A0

Carlo Barbolini, Massimo Boni, Mauro Petronio, Angelo Pozzi, Mauro Rontini, and Marco Sterni (Italy), 17/1/1986 to 150 meters from the summit. Doug Byerly (USA) and Rolando Garibotti (Argentina), 8-9/12/1996 to the summit.

Description. This superb route in the center of the north face has three very distinct sections. The lower section comprises 400 meters of discontinuous cracks and several slabs, which have somewhat fragile rock (flaky). This is followed by 200 meters of easy snow ramps that gain the base of the magnificent 600-meter long upper dihedral known as Diedro di Marco (after Sterni, who lead most of it). This dihedral, which is the most significant feature on the north face of Fitz Roy, involves excellent climbing on steep rock, that can be done mostly free, with the exception of short icy sections where aid is required (a free ascent at moderate grades –7a?- should be possible). There is a comfortable bivy ledge -the Grand Hotel- at the base of the dihedral. The first pitch above the Grand Hotel is a hard offwidth crack.

History. Barbolini and partners fixed about 900 meters of rope and climbed to the end of the difficulties, about 150 meters from the summit and 60 or more meters left of the Afanassieff. Here bad weather forced them to retreat. Marco Sterni, who led the hardest climbing on the route and was only 21 years old at the time, wanted to retry, so as to finish the climb, but was not able to convince the rest of the team. Sterni led the crux offwidth pitch using only a number 3 friend. Half way up it, with one shoulder and one foot stuck in the crack, barely holding on, he managed to place a bolt. This is the only non-belay bolt in the entire route. Barbolini and partners named the route Tehuelche in remembrance of the original inhabitants of the Patagonian plains, who today have disappeared. They also named their expedition “Chalten 85” to honor the name under which the Tehuelches knew Fitz Roy. First integral ascent and alpine style. Byerly and Garibotti climbed alpine style, completing the route in two and a half days round trip from the Torre Valley (up Hombre Sentado down Boquete del Piergiorgio).

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Gear. Note that screws and hangers on several bolts are missing, including the bolt on the crux pitch. Bring Petzl 8mm selfdrive (Spit) screws to replace them.

Descent. All the belays are equipped, with close to 50 pitons and 35 bolts, so a descent of the route is very straightforward.

Bibliography.
Barbolini: Alp 20 p. 38-49; AAJ 1987 p.210-212; Lo Scarpone 1986/10 p.10-11.
Byerly: AAJ 1997 p. 117-122.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Tehuelche

Fitz Roy north and west face

The Hoser Chimney

Fitz Roy north face

Tehuelche

Fitz Roy north face

Tehuelche

Fitz Roy north face



14.1 The Hoser Chimney

400m 6a M5

Dana Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson (USA)

Description. Yet another fine way to climb the north face. Provides what is likely an easier alternative to Tehuelche by avoiding the Diedro di Marco and therefore the offwidth. Climb via Tehuelche to the Grand Hotel, and from here follow a marked system to the right of Tehuelche and the Francesa Cara Norte. The start off the Grand Hotel ledge is along a left-facing corner on the right side of a “stem box” leading to an imposing roof, after which the route climbs right into a chimney system. This portion of the climb was dripping wet when first climbed and offered 6b adventure climbing at its finest, with a tricky M5 chockstone pitch at the top. After ten new pitches the route joins the Filo Noroeste route, along which it continues for 200 meters to the summit. It is remarkable that with this Tehuelche to Hoser Chimney link-up such a big rock face can be climbed at relatively moderate grades (1300m altogether).

History. Drummond and Wilkinson climbed alpine style, with one bivy just 4 pitches below the summit, which they reached at 9:30 AM on their second day. They had hoped to climb an independent line from the bottom but in the pre-dawn darkness failed to see any obvious lines on the lower face and therefore followed the starting pitches of Tehuelche. Hasn’t been repeated yet.

Gear. The first ascent party managed to climb the mixed sections high on the route with aluminum crampons and one light axe, but steel crampons and two tools, as well as a couple of ice screws are likely a better choice.

Descent. Down the Filo Noroeste, to Francesa Cara Norte and then to Tehuelche.



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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur 10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Aguilar, Banderet, Maillefer Attempt West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana28. The Washington Route 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up

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