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Update: last updated on 13/02/2011.

Fitz Roy - North pillar


10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás

900m 6c

Bean Bowers and Rolando Garibotti 1/2008, to top of the pillar; Matjaz Dusic and Lovro Vrsnik (Slovenia) 2/2011, to the summit.

Description. Climbs an obvious line on the northwest face of the Goretta pillar. It is a fantastic climb, with unmatched rock quality and climbing that is always engaging but never hard and always easy to protect. A very fun outing. There are no fixed anchors or any fixed gear on the route.

History. The route was initially climbed to the top of the pillar and saw 5 or 6 repeats to that point before an integral ascent was completed. The first ascent party took ten hours to the top of the pillar. The name of the route was an attempt to keep up with Pedrini’s nearby “argentinismo” (Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas). Dusnik and Vrsnik did the first integral ascent of the route climbing it over two days, making one bivy 20 pitches up and reaching the summit at 9PM of their second day.

In 2008 Dörte Pietron (DE) and Luciana Tessio (AR) did the first female ascent, descending from the summit of Pilar Goretta. In 1/2013 Sarah Hart did the first female ascent to the summit of the Fitz Roy, while Madeline Sorkin and Kate Rutherford climbed right behind, completing the fourth team female ascent of Fitz Roy via the same route.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Descent. There are no fixed anchors on the route so unless you want to leave a large portion of your rack behind, you will have to reach the top of the pillar to descent the Casarotto. This descent only takes a few hours (4 hours for a competent party). From the top of the Bloque Empotrado (chockstone at the col) rappel west back to the base of the route where, if you plan to climb just to the top of the pillar you can leave boots, crampons and other.

 

10.1. Guasos on the Rock

450m 7a C1

Gabriel Fava, Wenny Sánchez and Roberto Treu (AR) 1/2013.

Description. Climbs a line on the west face of Pilar Goretta, just right of Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás, joining that route below its crux pitch, three pitches below the obvious ledge.

History. The first ascent was completed over two days. The first ascent party retreated after reaching the top of Pilar Goretta.

Bibliography: Gabi Fava's blog: Patagonicos Desesperados


Photos (click to enlarge)

Casarotto

Fitz Roy north face

North face

Fitz Roy north and west face

Casarotto

Fitz Roy north pillar

Casarotto

Fitz Roy north pillar

Casarotto

Fitz Roy north pillar, upper part



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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur 10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Aguilar, Banderet, Maillefer Attempt West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana28. The Washington Route 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up

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