Fitz Roy - North pillar
10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás
900m 6c
Bean Bowers and Rolando Garibotti 1/2008, to top of the pillar; Matjaz Dusic and Lovro Vrsnik (Slovenia) 2/2011, to the summit.
Description. Climbs an obvious line on the northwest face of the Goretta pillar. It is a fantastic climb, with unmatched rock quality and climbing that is always engaging but never hard and always easy to protect. A very fun outing. There are no fixed anchors or any fixed gear on the route.
History. The route was initially climbed to the top of the pillar and saw 5 or 6 repeats to that point before an integral ascent was completed. The first ascent party took ten hours to the top of the pillar. The name of the route was an attempt to keep up with Pedrini’s nearby “argentinismo” (Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas). Dusnik and Vrsnik did the first integral ascent of the route climbing it over two days, making one bivy 20 pitches up and reaching the summit at 9PM of their second day.
In 2008 Dörte Pietron (DE) and Luciana Tessio (AR) did the first female ascent, descending from the summit of Pilar Goretta. In 1/2013 Sarah Hart did the first female ascent to the summit of the Fitz Roy, while Madeline Sorkin and Kate Rutherford climbed right behind, completing the fourth team female ascent of Fitz Roy via the same route.
Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.
Descent. There are no fixed anchors on the route so unless you want to leave a large portion of your rack behind, you will have to reach the top of the pillar to descent the Casarotto. This descent only takes a few hours (4 hours for a competent party). From the top of the Bloque Empotrado (chockstone at the col) rappel west back to the base of the route where, if you plan to climb just to the top of the pillar you can leave boots, crampons and other.
10.1. Guasos on the Rock
450m 7a C1
Gabriel Fava, Wenny Sánchez and Roberto Treu (AR) 1/2013.
Description. Climbs a line on the west face of Pilar Goretta, just right of Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás, joining that route below its crux pitch, three pitches below the obvious ledge.
History. The first ascent was completed over two days. The first ascent party retreated after reaching the top of Pilar Goretta.
Bibliography: Gabi Fava's blog: Patagonicos Desesperados
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