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Update: last updated on 06/01/2011.

Fitz Roy - North pillar

27. Al Abordaje!

900m 6c C2+

Luciano Fiorenza and Jimmy Heredia (Argentina), Sergio Tartari (Brazil) 12/2010, to top of the pillar.

Description. Climbs an obvious line on the northwest face of the Goretta pillar. In the middle and upper portion the climbing is fantastic, with unmatched rock quality. There are no fixed anchors or any fixed gear on the route.

History. The route was climbed with two bivies on the way up and one on top of the pillar. The first ascensionists reckon that the route could be free climbed.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Descent. There are no fixed anchors on the route so unless you want to leave a large portion of your rack behind you will have to reach the top of the pillar to descent the Casarotto route. This descent only takes a few hours (4 hours for a competent party). From the top of the Bloque Empotrado (chockstone at the col) rappel west back to the base of the route where, if you plan to climb just to the top of the pillar you can leave boots, crampons and other.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Fitz Roy north face

North face

Fitz Roy north and west face


Fitz Roy north pillar

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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