Fitz Roy - Goretta (north) pillar


9. Casarotto

9.1 Diedro Directo
9.2 Kearney-Knight
9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas
9.4 Lindblade-Whimp
9.5 Gringos Perdidos
9.6 Acceso Oeste
9.7 Crux del Sur
9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana

1250m 65˚ 6c (6b C1)

Renato Casarotto (Italy), 19/1/1979.

Description. An extraordinarily route; its length, rock quality and position make it one of the finest routes in the whole massif. It can easily be climbed mostly free, with the exception of a few short sections that are often icy and therefore require aid (a free ascent of the Casarotto with Kearney-Knight variation has been done, but not of the original Casarotto line).

Climb an obvious couloir leading to the col del Bloque Empotrado (chockstone), which involves easy mixed terrain for 300 meters. Three pitches above the block traverse left for 30 meters to reach a dihedral and chimney system, which leads to cracks near the pillar’s edge higher up, and eventually the top of the pillar. From this point two short and awkward diagonal rappels are necessary to reach the final 300-meter headwall. This last section involves some of the hardest climbing on the route (free at 7a but often icy) as well as low angle ice slopes that require basic ice gear. There are bivouac ledges at the col del Bloque Empotrado, at the top of the pillar and at the col at the base of the final headwall.

Many ascents have been made to the top of the pillar, but few parties continue to the summit, and most climb significant variations to the original line (see Kearney-Knight, Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas, Lindblade-Whimp), which in its entirety might still be unrepeated.

History. This route was first attempted in early 1978 by a large Italian team led by Giuseppe Caneva (CAI Morbegno), that included Renato Casarotto. They were forced to retreat after climbing 250 meters of the pillar. On his second trip to try it, Casarotto was deserted by his teammates Luigi Zen and Giovanni Maiori, and decided to try the route alone, with the support of his wife Goretta, after whom the pillar is named. He fixed ropes to the top of the pillar. His was the first solo ascent of the mountain and till today the only solo new route in the entire peak. His vision and perseverance were likely unmatched at the time. This was one of the finest achievements of the great Italian “Maestro”, who made many outstanding solo ascents before his untimely death on K2 in 1986 while trying to complete the so called “Magic Line”.

Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.

Descent. It is possible to descend the route, but since climbing back to the top of the Goretta pillar is difficult a traverse of the mountain descending the Francesa is recommended.

Bibliography.
Caneva: CAI-Rivista Mensile 1978/7-8 p.292.
Casarotto: Rivista della Montagna 85 p. 58-67, p. 85; AAJ 1980 p. 383-386; Mountain 69 p.15-16; Mountain 95 p.28-33; Alpi Venete # autuno-natale 1979 p.11-114; Casarotto R. and G. (1996) Una vita tra le montagne, De Agostini, Novara (p.32-41); Traverso G. (2008) La Via della Montagna, Priuli&Verlucci, Torino, Italy (p.77-96); Moro R. (1980/2) Fitz Roy - Pilastro Nord, Natura e Fotografia, Scarpa, Asolo (TV).

9.5 Gringos Perdidos

250m 6c

Jesse Huey and Toby Grohne (USA), 2008.

Description. Yet another fine way to climb the Goretta pillar. Climb the Casarotto to the Kearney-Knight to Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas to Lindblade-Whimp, to reach the big ledge one and a half pitches above the “red dike" face traverse. At the ledge walk west -right- about 60 meters, to an obvious crack system in the arête that marks the right edge of the steep wall above the ledge -the dihedral further right is where Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás climbs. Gringos Perdidos climbs 6 to 8 new pitches involving 6c freeclimbing. Likely the last 2 or 3 pitches of Gringos Perdidos are shared with the Lindblade-Whimp and Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas.

History. The first ascent was done alpine style.

Pro. Two each camalots to #4, one camalot #5, nuts, two ice screws.

9.6 Acceso Oeste

It is possible to climb into the Kearney-Knight from the west. Although this would initially seem like a good option as it avoids the east facing couloir to the Col del Bloque Empotrado, the climbing is somewhat hard and slow, so it is not recomended. In 2006 Americans Kate Rutherford and Mikey Schaefer climbed a line to reach the Kearney-Knight before retreating due to bad weather. In 2009 Doerte Pietron (D) and Rolando Garibotti (ARG) climbed a paralel line to reach the Kearney-Knight along which they continued to the top of the Goretta Pillar.

9.7 Crux del Sur

150m + 250m 6c

Luciano Fiorenza (Argentina) and Sacha Gal (Switzerland), 2/2012; to the top of the Goretta pillar.

Description. Another great option up the Goretta pillar. Climb the first three pitches of the Casarotto then two more along Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas, and where Chimichurri heads right continue straight, climbing 4 pitches to join the Kearney-Knight for a pitch before heading right to climb a steep dihedral that marks the left edge of the pillar’s “nose.”

History. The ascent was completed alpine style over two days, approaching via the Casarotto and retreating due to bad weather from the top of the pillar. The name refers to the obvious red dikes cross half way up the route, which they had estimated would be the crux, but turned out not to. Still awaits an integral ascent to the summit.

Pro. Two each camalots to #4, one #5, nuts, Rps, 2 ice screws.

9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana

130m 7a+

Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera (IT) and Sylvan Schupbach (CH), 2/2015.

Description. Climbs four pitches up just left of the pillar’s “nose.”