Fitz Roy - Goretta (north) pillar
30. The Real Kekec
900m 6c+ A2
Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj (SI), 1/2013.
Description. Climbs a new line that starts just left of Hudičeva Zajeda (Diedro del Diablo), joining this for one pitch before busting right, climbing 800 and some meters of new ground to join Renato Casarotto's 1979 route one pitch below the summit of Pilar Goretta and along this it continues to the summit (1200m altogether).
History. They climbed the route alpine style, with no jumars, placing no bolts and leaving no gear in place. They bivouacked three times in the ascent and once in the descent. The name of the route, The Real Kekec, refers to a Slovenian fictional character created by writer Josip Vandot in the early 20th century. Kekec is a brave and clever shepherd boy in the highlands of the Karavanke and Julian Alps. He is Slovene cultural icon, subject of many stories, songs and movies.
Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.
Photos (click to enlarge)
Fitz Roy east face and Goretta pillar
Fitz Roy Goretta pillar