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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - Southeast face

2. Línea Hermanos Gallego

Miguel Angel and José Luis García Gallego (Spain), 20/03/1984.

Description. This line, which climbs the left side of the southeast face still awaits a continuous ascent. The line involves several pendulums and much aid climbing –up to A4-, as well as mixed terrain in the lower third, which is exposed to falling debris. The exact line followed by the Gallego brothers is unclear.

History. After a failed attempt in early 1982 with M. Del Castillo and M. Gómez (Spain), the first ascensionists returned in 1984, and made many attempts over a three month period, until they finally completed the line in three separate sections. The first 400 meters were climbed during the 1982 attempt, and were not re-climbed in 1984. After climbing the middle third and retreating, the upper third was accessed by regaining the previous high point via fixed ropes along the Francesa and Argentine variations. The Gallegos made four bivouacs on the wall during the final push (Desnivel 14 p. 22-27).

Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.

Mountain 103 p. 20-23; AAJ 1985 p.42-48; Desnivel 13 p.6; Desnivel 14 p.22-27.

Photos (click to enlarge)

South face

Fitz Roy east face

South face

Fitz Roy southeast face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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