1. Travesía Triología Inca
500m 6b A0
Tommy Bonapace and Gerold Dünser (Austria), 14/3/1992.
Description. Climb an obvious left leaning ramp on the southeast face of Aguja Cuatro Dedos, to reach a point 25 meters above the col between Cuatro Dedos and Inti. Descend to the col and climb snow and easy rock to the summit. The following two towers involve slabs and cracks close to the ridge itself, with several rappels in between. In all it involves 21 pitches with difficulties to 6b and one pendulum,
History. Bonapace and Dünser did the first ascent of these three towers and were responsible for christening them. They completed the ascent in 16 hours round trip. They had made two previous attempts, one of them with Brazilian climbing legend “Bito”.
Monnoyeur and Sourzac found several old fixed ropes in place. It is unclear who had previously attempted or climbed their variation.
Descent. Descend to the col south of Pachamama and from there straight down to the glacier.
Bibliography. AAJ 1993 p. 184-185; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14-21; High magazine 131 p. 17.