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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - North face


29. Samba do Leao



1300m 6b+

Flavio Daflon, Sergio Tartari, (BR) and Luciano Fiorenza (AR), 1/2013.

Description. They started left of Tehuelche, climbing nine new pitches to reach the ledges leading to the Gran Hotel. From there they climbed virgin ground between Clinica de Aventura and The Hoser Chimney, climbing 11 new pitches to the NW ridge. At this point they joined The Hoser Chimney for two or three pitches before crossing the Afanassieff and heading right onto the steep headwall leading to the summit, climbing eight more pitches following a line immediately left of the Rocamora-Tarditti variation to the Afanassieff. In all they climbed 30 pitches with difficulties to 6c. The second wall, between the Gran Hotel and the NW ridge involves mostly finger and hand size crack climbing, with a single off-width pitch (6b+).

History. The route was climbed alpine style over three days. The name, "the samba of the lion", reffers to the fact that eash day they had to "kill a lion", climbing each of the three major steep steps the route has.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Photos (click to enlarge)

The Hoser Chimney

Fitz Roy north face

Tehuelche

Fitz Roy north face

Tehuelche

Fitz Roy north face

North face

Fitz Roy north face

North face

Fitz Roy north face




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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up

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