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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - East face

7. Línea de Eleganza

1250m 90˚ 7c (6c A2) M

Horacio Codo, Lucas Fava (Argentina) and Elio Orlandi (Italy), 07/02/2004.

History. This line was originally attempted in early 1982 by a Japanese team of seven climbers led by Tsuneo Hasegawa who climbed approximately 400 meters. Elio Orlandi tried it on several occasions, the first with Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni in 2001. With Fava and Codo, and initially with the help of Fabio Giacomelli, Orlandi fixed ropes on the first 600 meters where they established a camp in a ledge they dubbed “Grand Hotel Patagonicus”. Above this point they fixed the ropes they had used in the lower wall to eventually reach the summit after several (9?) days on the wall. Some of the upper pitches might be in common with El Corazón. Free ascent, alpine style. Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue and Erik Roed (USA), 22-24/02/2006. They repeated the route in two days, climbing alpine style, with the leader onsight free climbing every pitch, the seconds following on jumars, with difficulties to 5.12d and M8. They descended the Francesa.

In 2016 Iñaki Coussirat was hit by rock fall while climbing high on this route and later died from the injuries suffered. Carlitos Molina, his partner lowered him back to the glacier.

Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior.

Descent. Raps anchors along the route, but a descent via the Francesa would likely be more convenient.

Photos (click to enlarge)

El Corazon

Fitz Roy southeast face

El Corazon

Fitz Roy southeast face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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