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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - South face

24. The Canadian Route

500m 45˚ 6b C1

Paul McSorley and Jon Walsh (Canada), January 2005.

Description. This routes climbs a line of right facing corners left of the Boris Simoncic route. Walsh strongly recomends this route, arguing that it is very high quality and much cleaner than the Franco-Argentina, with none of the fixed ropes and manky, old, poorly equalized fixed anchors that caracterize that route. He also estimates that the route could be climbed free at around 7b. The route's best pitch is a superbe 60 meter enduro corner that goes free at about 6c. 650m altogether.

History. McSorley and Walsh started climbing at 1 PM and because of afternoon shade and icy cracks from a recent storm, were forced to climb in mountain boots rather than rock shoes, resorting often to direct aid. They made one bivy half way up the route, and after reaching the summit rapped the Franco-Argentina route. This route was repeated a few weeks later by Aaron Martin and Jacob Schmitz in 36 hours round trip from base-camp (7hs from bergschrund to summit), free climbing 85% of it at less than 6b.

Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 75˚ -to 90˚- 3).

Gear. Walsh writes »a standard double rack is all that's needed, as a perfect nut or cam is never more than a body length away«.

Descent. Francesa.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Fitz Roy south face


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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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