Fitz Roy - South face
24. The Canadian Route
500m 45˚ 6b C1
Paul McSorley and Jon Walsh (Canada), January 2005.
Description. This routes climbs a line of right facing corners left of the Boris Simoncic route. Walsh strongly recomends this route, arguing that it is very high quality and much cleaner than the Franco-Argentina, with none of the fixed ropes and manky, old, poorly equalized fixed anchors that caracterize that route. He also estimates that the route could be climbed free at around 7b. The route's best pitch is a superbe 60 meter enduro corner that goes free at about 6c. 650m altogether.
History. McSorley and Walsh started climbing at 1 PM and because of afternoon shade and icy cracks from a recent storm, were forced to climb in mountain boots rather than rock shoes, resorting often to direct aid. They made one bivy half way up the route, and after reaching the summit rapped the Franco-Argentina route. This route was repeated a few weeks later by Aaron Martin and Jacob Schmitz in 36 hours round trip from base-camp (7hs from bergschrund to summit), free climbing 85% of it at less than 6b.
Approach. Paso Superior to Brecha de los Italianos to La Silla (300m 75˚ -to 90˚- 3).
Gear. Walsh writes »a standard double rack is all that's needed, as a perfect nut or cam is never more than a body length away«.