300m 6a C2 60°
Roberto "Kako" Pardiñas and Omar Moscoso (AR), 12/2/1994.
Description. Climb to La Brecha as if approaching Fitz Roy. Once in La Brecha, descend about 100 meters and then make a long southbound traverse until you are below Kakito. Climb a prominent crack system for about ten pitches, to reach a shoulder north of the summit. The summit is a compact block which has to be contoured around its east, south and west side to eventually come to a lone crack that gives access to the top.
History. Kako attempted it in 1991 with Jorge Arias from the east side, but the couloir right of Poincenot proved to be too dangerous.
Approach. Laguna de los Tres to Paso Superior to La Brecha de los Italianos.
Descent. Via the same route.
Bibliography. High Magazine 142 p. 42; AAJ 1994 p. 185.
In 2010 Colin Haley (USA) and Rolando Garibotti (Arg.) climbed a line to the right of Belladona, which they joined for the last three pitches. They had hoped to find a faster way to the summit, but blank rock forced them to do several pedulums back to the first ascent line. They reach the base of the summit block. They descended down the north ridge first, then down the dihedral between Kakito and the tower immediately north.