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Update: last updated on 06/03/2013.

Fitz Roy - North face

31. Persiguiendo el Avión

900m 7b+ (1800m altogether)

Stéphanne Hanssens and Seán Villanueva (BE), 3/2013.

Description.. Climbs a very long line that starts at the very bottom of the north-west pillar. The initial section is easy (5 to 6b+) until it reaches a very steep pillar where the difficulties reach the 7b+/c range. At the end of the pillar it heads left to the Gran Hotel. Here it joins El Flaco con Domingo and eventually the Afanassieff to reach the summit (1800m altogether). The first ascent team climbed every pitch free and all except one onsight.

History. Hanssens and Villanueva started climbing at 7AM and arrived at the Gran Hotel around 10PM. Because they had very limited time before their flight home they kept going, climbing through the night to reach the summit around 2PM on day two. They then descended the Casarotto arriving back to the base at 6AM, less than 48 hours since starting. They slept one hour and headed back to El Chalten to catch a 6PM bus to the airport… The name of the route, chasing the plane, reflects this race against time.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Descent. The first ascent party descended via the Casarotto.

Photos (click to enlarge)

North face

Fitz Roy north and west face

North face

Fitz Roy north and west face

North faceNorth faceFitz Roy north face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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