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News and major updates

East face of Riso Patrón Central8/10/2015

Lise Billon, Antoine Moineville, Diego Simari and Jerome Sullivan opened “Hasta las Webas”, a new route in the east face of Cerro Riso Patrón Central (1000m ED-). Read on.

Remembering Marco Pedrini8/09/2015

Ian Parnell interviews Romolo Nottaris. Read on.

The last window5/03/2015

East face of Fitz attempts and clean up; Pilar Goretta variation; another free solo of Chiaro di Luna; Sisyphus in full effect on Cerro Torre; Torrisimo attempts to messure up to "Donini's Anatomy". Read on.


So much has gone down in the last few days that it is hard to know where to start. The weather was far from good and conditions were quite marginal, but there are plenty of motivated climbers around, so shit went down in a big way. Read on.
Se hizo tanto en los últimos días que resulta difícil saber donde empezar. Las condiciones eran malas y el clima no fue gran que, pero parece haber infinita motivación. Lea la nota.

99 years of mountaineering in the area

In five days we celebrate the 99th year anniversary of the first ascent ever done in this area. On the 23rd of February of 1916 Alfred Kölliker, Fritz Kühn, Lutz Witte and partners did the first ascent of Cerro Huemul. Enormous contribution they made during that expedition, exploring, mapping and publishing the first "guidebook" to the area, two tomes that in 500 pages describe every detail of what they observed and experienced, the foundation of everything that has happened since.

09/02/2015Completing the puzzle - second addendum.

Bruno Detassis detailed report: no mention of an outing to the col north of Col Standhardt in this report or in any of the extensive bibliography of the expedition.

07/02/2015Completing the puzzle - addendum - Maestri’s respnse

Cesare Maestri's response has been predictable, if not sad.

Completing the Puzzle

Over the past four decades, Cesare Maestri's claimed ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959 with Toni Egger has been widely discredited. An abundance of evidence has shown that their high point was only a quarter of the way up. What has remained a mystery is where they actually went during the seven days that Maestri said their round trip required, and from which Egger never returned. New information gives us unequivocal proof of a place they visited that, curiously, Maestri never mentioned and that is nowhere near his claimed ascent, and certainly no place one would unintentionally wander or forget. Read on

13/02/20152014-2015 Season

Cerro Torre
- Via dei Ragni, second free-solo ascent, Markus Pucher's specialty. A lengthy account here.
- Travesía del Oso Buda. In yet another brillant display of his skill, motivation and drive Colin Haley, together with Marc-André Leclerc traversed the Cerro Torre group again, this time from south to north, in reverse. One could reasonably argue that Colin now "owns" the Cerro Torre group. It will be hard to dethrone this one as the climb of the season.
- Directa de la Mentira. Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc, the two fittest and hungriest men here at this moment, "the unstoppable two", just did the first "complete" (bottom to top) ascent of the north face, climbing El Arca to the Egger-Torre col ("Col de la Mentira" in Haley's words), to then climb six new pitches up a beautiful line parallel and to the left of the north ridge, joining back with El Arca on the last four pitches of the north face. This comes barely a week and some days after they completed the first ascent of La Travesía del Oso Buda. They are on fire!!
- Colin Haley and Alex Honnold come mighty close to doing the second ascent of the Travesía del Torre, renouncing two pitches below the summit of Cerro Torre after merely 20 hours of climbing. The Torre Traverse is now a "day climb"!
- Marc-André Leclerc brought down the house with a solo of the Corkscrew. A solo of this magnitude is probably only second to Renato Casarotto’s ("God with a mustache") first ascent of Fitz Roy’s north pillar.
- Caroline North and Christina Huber did the first female team ascent of the Via dei Ragni.
- Luka Lindic, Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj traversed the three Adelas and went on to climb the Via dei Ragni, repeating a good portion of the Travesía Adelas a Torre.
- The Sysphus myth is in full effect on Cerro Torre: Elio Orlandi continues his ten year quest to climb a line on the east face, while Thomas Huber makes another attempt on the Travesía del Torre.

Punta Herron
- Tobogán, first integral ascent (photo).

- Torrisimo attempts to messure up to "Donini's Anatomy". First ascent by Colin Haley and Jon Schaffer. Info coming.

Cerro Domo Blanco
- Pilastro Rampagaroi, Amico Vento, Amica Luna

Cordón del Cerro Pollione
- Gran Gendarme to Tridente Sur traverse.

Gran Gendarme del Pollone
- No Entiendo variantion.

Aguja Pollone
- Alternate Sit Start from the very bottom of the east butress.

Cerro Fitz Roy
- The lower half of Pilar Este gets clean up.
- Amaro Vecchia Romana, variation to Crux del Sur on Pilar Goretta.

Aguja Guillaumet
- Von Bürgermeister, new route on the west face.

Aguja Poincenot
- John Henry, new line on the north face.
- Invisible Line, new line in the northeast face.

Aguja Saint-Exupery
- Chiaro di Luna, first and second free-solo ascents

Aguja Rafael Juarez
- West Ridge, a line up to it from the north

Mojón Rojo
- Blockbuster, new route on the west face

"Hielo Continental"
- Riso Patrón, a team approached the base of the west face of Cumbre Sur from the west. Updated heights.
- Cerro Buracchio, first ascent and some new details regarding the original name. Updated height.


3/1/201Peak lists. Your pick, your peaks.

There have been various peak lists claims over the years. Here is a look at the possible peak lists of the Fitz Roy Range and the Cerro Torre group. Continue reading.

17/12/2014Gestión de Riesgo - Risk Management

El gran número de accidentes que ocurren en comparación al número de usuarios es preocupante. Acá presentamos un primer intento a una ayuda memoria sobre los puntos a tomar en consideración antes de embarcarse en una ascensión. Sugerimos también leer las paginas de la guía relacionadas con “como sobrevivir” y rescates. En español pdf aca.

The huge number of accidents that have been happening in comparison to the number of users is worrisome. Here we present a first attempt at a list of considerations to take into account before embarking on a climb. We also suggest reading carefully the pages of the guidebook that relate to staying alive and rescue. English pdf here.

Patagonia Vertical - Updates and corrections - 2012/13.

We have put together a pdf document with updates and corrections to the English language version published in 11/2012. We suggest you print these pages to have them as an appendix to the guidebook.

03/03/20142013-2014 Season

New routes, variations and significant ascents.

Cerro Grande
- Punta Sordo first ascent of the last unclimbed summit in the west ridge of Cerro Grande.

Torre Egger
West face attempt, impressive effort.

Aguja Standhardt
- Desarmada, SCUD gets an integral ascent and "joined-existing-line-no-summit-new-route-concept" discussion.

Aguja de la Medialuna
- La Media Docena, a pleasant looking new route on the left side of the face.

Perfil de Indio
- Rime Storm Cowboys, an impressive 80-meter waterfall on the east face.

Cerro Domo Blanco
- Superdomo, never has a new route become so popular so fast.
- Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, D'Artagnan, new route and first ascent.
- Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, Filo del Tornado, new route.

Cerro Piergiorgio
- Cara Este, the first complete ascent of the peak.

Cerro Pollone
- El Busca Jesus, an alternate finish to Rayuela.

Pollone Group
- Aguja Tito Carrasco: new routes: Atari; Ippon, Halle Berry and Terroir.
- El Hombro: Free Cowboy Hats, new route.
- Aguja El Tridente, first ascent and two new routes: La Piqueta Voladora and The Secret of the Mountain.
- Cumbrecitas, first ascent of two small summits south of Gran Gendarme.

Cerro Rincón
- Ruleta Trentina, a very dangerous new route.

Pizarra Escondida
- Alfajores, chauras y demás.

Aguja Volonqui
- El Lobito, new route and the first ascent of the peak to the very top.

Cordón Marconi - Aguja Dumbo
- Vstala Primorska, new route and the first ascent of the peak.

Cerro Marconi Central
- La Superwhillans, a beautiful easy new route and the first ascent of the peak.

Cordón del Cerro Fitz Roy
- The Fitz Traverse, the climb of the season by a long long shot.

Cerro Fitz Roy
- Austin Siadak, Julian Poush and Kevi Prince climbed an important variation to the North Pillar Sit Start.
- Tango Libre, 450m of new terrain in the lower west pillar connecting to the Afanassieff.
- Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Sylvan Schupbach climbed a sit-start to the Californiana.

Aguja Guillaumet
- Bossanova, beautiful line on the west face.
- Klettertren, two variations to the Beger-Jennings route.
- Beger-Jennings, Colin Haley solos the link up with Courrier du Sud and Terre des Hommes in a little over 2 hs.
- So Long Charlie, ice smear variation to the Fowler route.
- Richard-Simmons, classy variation to the Coqueugniot-Guillot.
- Macleod-Muskett, difficult mixed line right of the Amy-Vidailhet.

Aguja Saint-Exupery
- Can Accompany Only, new variation to Chiaro di Luna.

Banff Mountain Book Competition
Guidebook Award!
A few weeks ago we noted that we had made it into the guidebook category finalists list at the 2013 Banff Mountain Book Competition. Now we are pleased to announce that the jury has given Patagonia Vertical the Guidebook Award! We are incredibly honored and stoked. More info here.

06/10/2013The Mysteries of Rime Mushrooms

Dave Whiteman, Research Professor at the University of Utah and Rolando Garibotti published an article about the mysteries of rime mushrooms in the September issue of the Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, a peer review journal. Many climbers provided photos and information for this article, see the acknowledgements section of the article. The article can be read HERE.

22/03/20132012-2013 Season Overview

New routes, variations and significant ascents.

El Mocho
- Dulce de Leche, new route

Cerro Torre
- The Via dei Ragni finally gets its place as the normal route up Torre.
- Directa Huarpe, an impressive new line
- "Fair Means" Corkscrew

Torre Egger
Notti Magiche, new route.

Aguja Bifida
- A direct start to the Lüthi-Bresba, the Gunnison Direct.

Agujas CAT, Cuatro Dedos, Atchachila and Pachamama
- Travesía Manos y Mas Manos, seven summits in a row...

Aguja Tito Carrasco
- Zigzag, variation.

Gran Gendarme del Pollone
- No Entiendo, new route
- The Perfekt Day, new route

Aguja Pollone and Cumbre Este
- Sit-Start & Traverse
- La Granja, variation

Aguja Guillaument
- Dirigo, new route
- The Gambler variation, Tierra de Traucas

Aguja Mermoz
- Hypermermoz, two new variations
- Vol de Nuit to the summit

Cerro Fitz Roy
- Un Mar de Sueños, the new route of the season in this massif.
- El Corazon, second ascent.
- The Real Kekec, new route on Pilar Goretta
- Mate, Porro y Todo los Demás, the girls pull down!
- Guasos on the Rock, a long variation on Pilar Goretta
- Samba do Leao, new route
- Persiguiendo el Avion, new route
- Afanassieff, previously unreported variations and more girls pulling down.

Aguja de la Silla
- Carril Rapido, new route

Aguja Kakito "group"
- Punta Kavarovsk

Aguja Poincenot
- Judgement Day, free ascent

Aguja Rafael Juárez
- Los Sanjuaniños, variation

Aguja de l'S
- Carne y Papas, new route
- Besos to Pesos, new route

Mojón Rojo
- El Zorro, major new route

© 2014 Rolando Garibotti & Dörte Pietron.

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Macizo de El Chaltén

A complete guidebook to the Chaltén Massif. Winner of the Guidebook Award at the Banff Film and Book Festival. Read more

Una guía completa para
las montañas del Macizo
de El Chaltén. Ganador del Premio a la Mejor Guia de Montaña en el Festival de Cine y Libros de Banff, Canada.
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Cerro Catedral - Frey

Guía completa para
las agujas del Cerro Catedral, zona del Refugio Emilio Frey, Bariloche. Más información

A complete guidebook to the towers of Cerro Catedral, area of Refugio Emilio Frey, Bariloche.
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Updates & Corrections

- Aguja Tito Carrasco and "Hombro": more details and route names for the recent new routes:
Halle Berry
Free Cowboy Hats

- Cerro Grande.

- We have updated the petition in support of the de-bolting of the Compressor Route to reflect the "Special Mention" that the de-bolting was awarded at the 2013 Piolets d'Or and also to include the support of Ermanno Salvaterra and some considerations that Nico Favresse made in an interview with Desnivel. In english here, en español aquí.

- We have updated the SE Ridge and Compressor Route pages to reflect the "Special Mentions" received at the 2013 Piolet d'Or by the rope teams Kennedy-Kruk and Lama-Ortner, for the first ascent of the SE Ridge, for the de-bolting of the Compressor Route and for the free ascent of the SE Ridge.


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