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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - North face

12. Francesa Cara Norte

1000m 40˚ 6b+ A2+

Jerome Arpin, Sylvain Empereur, Yannick Ponson and Lionel Pouzadoux (France), 22/1/2002.

Description. Their line starts just right of the ruta Polaca and reaches the Grand Hotel (a big ledge half way up the face) in about 16 pitches. There it crosses Tehuelche, and climbs a parallel crack system just to the right of it to reach the NW ridge where it joins the Filo Noroeste for the last 200 meters. In total 32 pitches (1250m altogether).

History. They spent a total of six days working on the route, and fixed around 800 meters of rope. It is still unrepeated.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Descent. All belays are in place so it is possible to rappel the route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

French north face

Fitz Roy north and west face

French north face

Fitz Roy north face

French north face

Fitz Roy north face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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