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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.


Mojón Rojo (ca. 2170m).


The summit of Mojon Rojo provides excellent views of both the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy massifs. The east face is a moderate, yet interesting route. It is surprising that this peak does not draw more people, since along with Cerro Solo, Gorra Blanca and Cerro Electrico is one of the best alternatives for fun “classic” mountaineering in the area.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Desmochada

Mojon Rojo - overview.

Desmochada

Mojon Rojo - Laguna Sucia

approach.

Desmochada

Mojon Rojo - Laguna Sucia

approach.


1. Cara Este

150m 4 30˚

In 1961 Argentines Cesarino Fava and José Mordini made the first ascent of the peak via its east face.

Description. The climb involves several moderate pitches on firm rock (2 to 4) and an exposed traverse across the west side to reach the summit.

History. The original intention of this expedition was to recover Toni Egger’s body, but large amounts of snow and adverse conditions proved their efforts fruitless. However, they did manage to place a plaque in his memory at the base of Cerro Torre, not far from where he lost his life. The plaque was sent by the SAT from Trento. This expedition was only possible thanks to the help given by Tito Lucchini and Carlo Turrini (for other ascents accomplished during this expedition refer to the bibliography below).

Approach. Laguna Sucia to Glaciar Río Blanco Superior.

Pro. Glacier travel kit, plus a few stoppers and cams.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. AAJ 1962 p. 263, CAI-Rivista mensile M 80/5-6 p. 179-180; Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo, Commissione Centrale delle Pubblicazioni, Club Alpino Italiano 1972/2 p. 838-839; Bolletino SAT 1961/1-2 p. 15; Bolletino SAT 1961/4 p. 13.

 


2. Cara Oeste

300m 60˚ 5+

Jim Bridwell (USA) and Robert Staszewski (Australia), in late March 1978.

Description. Approach via the Torre valley and climb the couloir just north of the peak (500m 40˚) to where it gets steeper. The following five pitches constitute the crux of the route. Two pitches of ice to 60˚ lead to a slabby ramp and after a loose corner climb easy slabs to one last pitch (5+).

History. It was climbed alpine style in two days. They were supported by Bob Killipand and John Nitschke. Scott Cole (USA) repeated this line or climbed a paralel line in November 1987.

Approach. Before Niponino.

Descent. To the east, to Laguna Sucia?

Bibliography. AAJ 1978 p. 584; Mountain Magazine 55 p. 11.

3. El Zorro

700m 6a+ A1

Colin Haley (US) and Sarah Hart (CA), 2/2013

Description. Approach via the Torre valley and climb the couloir just north of the peak to then head right onto the west face of the peak. The first half of the route climbs a subtle buttress and is mostly simul-climbing with one section of 6a+/A0. At the top of the buttress follow an easy gully feature, which leads to the crest of the west ridge, at a notch with a tower. The route from here climbs spectacular crack systems on the face just left of the west ridge, with features always connecting just enough for enjoyable 6a/b climbing. As it nears the top of the face continue connecting face cracks right of an obvious chimney. The climbing remains in the 6a/b range until the last few meters of the face, whichrequired A1 off of knifeblades. The A1 section gains the west ridge, and from here one more pitch gains the lower, northwest summit of Mojón Rojo. From the northwest summit a spectacular section of simul-climbing on a true knife-edge ridge, and one short rappel, leads to the base of the main summit tower. Two more rope-lengths lead to the scrambling terrain on the east face, and an exposed V0 boulder problem to the true summit.

History. The name refers to the red color rock (after red foxes) and also refers to the fox that spent much of the 2012-13 season hanging out at Niponino. The first ascent was done in one day from Niponino, climbing up and over desceding to the east, via Laguna Sucia.

Approach. Before Niponino.

Pro. Bring some KBs.

Descent. To the east, to Laguna Sucia.

Bibliography. Haley's blog.

 



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Mojón RojoEast face 1. Cara EsteWest face2. Cara Oeste3. El Zorro

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