Fitz Roy - North pillar


31. Guasos on the Rock

550m 7a C1

Gabriel Fava, Wenny Sánchez and Roberto Treu (AR) 1/2013.

Description. Climbs a line on the west face of Pilar Goretta, just right of Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás, joining that route at two thirds height (900m altogether).

History. The first ascent was completed over two days. The first ascent party retreated after reaching the top of Pilar Goretta.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Descent. There are no fixed anchors on the route so unless you want to leave a large portion of your rack behind, you will have to reach the top of the pillar to descent the Casarotto. This descent only takes a few hours (4 hours for a competent party). From the top of the Bloque Empotrado (chockstone at the col) rappel west back to the base of the route where, if you plan to climb just to the top of the pillar you can leave boots, crampons and other.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Roy north face

Fitz Roy north and west face

Fitz Roy north pillar

Fitz Roy north pillar

Fitz Roy north pillar, upper part