home climbing areas field notesknowledgedisclaimercopyrightcontactdonate

Update: last updated on 20/02/2016.


El Tridente - Cumbrecitas Sur y Norte.



1. La Piqueta Voladora
2. The Secret of the Mountain
3. Knob-mania

El Tridente is a formation with three very disntinct summits located immediately north of Aguja Tito Carrasco, in the ridge linking this to the Gran Gendarme. The Cumbrecitas Sur and Norte are two smaller summits further north on the same ridge, immediately south of the Gran Gendarme. All of these formations have very prominent west faces that in time will yield many interesting new routes.

In early 2013 Joel and Neil Kauffman did the first ascent of Cumbrecita Norte. From the col between this and Gran Gendarme they climbed two pitches, 4+ and 5+. They approached from the west, via the couloir immediately south of Gran Gendarme. See number 4 in the photos.

In early 2014 Jack Cramer (US) ascended Cumbrecita Norte - snow and easy scrambling to reach the top. Cramer approach as the Kauffmans did. That same day Cramer did the first ascents of the north and central summits of El Tridente. He climbed snowfields (40˚) and did a bit of easy scrambling to reach both summits. See number 3 in the photos.

Cramer returned some days later with Drew Smith (US) to do the first ascent of the Cumbre Sur of El Tridente. See La Piqueta Voladora below.

Cramer and Smith christened El Tridente after its appearence. The Kauffmans did the same with the Cumbrecitas.

In early 2015 Clayton Laramie, Cody Scarpella and Carsten von Birckhahn climbed the upper part of The Perfekt Day on Gran Gendarme del Pollone, rappelled south, climbed both Cumbrecitas and the three summits of El Tridente, rappeling north to Tito Carrasco, climbing part way up before retreating due to rime covered rock. They had hoped to traverse from Gran Gendarme to Cerro Pollone. From the central summit of Tridente they rappelled south to a notch with a jammed block and to reach a crack that allow to climb out of it, they placed a bolt. See number 5 in the photos.

A couple of days later they climbed Cumbrecita Sur from the west, via a gully, climbing also a shoulder located to the west. See number 6 in the photos.

 

Photos (click to enlarge)

Kakito

Pollone Group, Aguja El Tridente,

overview

Kakito

Pollone Group overview


El Tridente – East face

1. La Piqueta Voladora

230m 75º M4

Jack Cramer and Drew Smith (US), 1/2014.

Description. The first ascensionists approached via the couloir immediately north of Tito Carrasco. An initial lower angle ice ramp leads to a leftward trending snow traverse, followed by a 60m ice-filled squeeze/chimney and easier climbing through blocks to reach the summit. They encountered good rock and pleasant yet groveling climbing.

History. They named the route "La Piqueta Voladora". The name refers to the fact that they only had three ice tools between both of them and because the crux pitch was too hard to follow with a single tool Jack decided to attempt a risky throw of the 3rd tool back down the gully. Miraculously their expensive piece of gear avoided the bergschrund, among other obstacles, on its long and fortuitous slide and came to stop in the snow at Drew's feet. After calming his very real fear of impalement, Drew was able to easily follow the pitch.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi.

Descent. Via the same route.


Kakito

Pollone Group, Aguja El Tridente,

overview

Kakito

Pollone Group overview


El Tridente– West face

2. The Secret of the Mountain

400m 70˚ WI4 M6 6a C1

Justin DuBois, Allen Riling and Edward Corder (US), 1/2014, to the base of the summit pinnacle.

Description. Climbs an obvious gully to traverse right across a hanging snowfield, up and then down, to hit the upper rock ridge which is climbed in three pitches (C1 M6, 5+, 4). The mixed ground to reach the hanging snowfield there is runout (M6).

History. The first ascensionist retreated from the base of the summit pinnacle, without reaching the summit.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi.

Descent. Via the south face to reach the gully between Tito Carrasco and Tridente and then down this to back to the base.

 


Kakito

Pollone Group - west aspect detail

 

Kakito

Pollone Group overview


El Tridente– West face

3. Knob-mania

300m 7c

Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama - Takaaki Nagato, 1/2016.

Description. Knobmania climbs 10 pitches (400m climbing; 300m vertical gain) with difficulties to 7c.

The pitches go as follows: 30m 6b+; 20m 7c; 25m 6a+; 40m 7a+; 50m 6c; 60m 6a; 50m 6a; 30m 6a; 45m 2; 50m 5.

History. "Jumbo" and "Nagato" climbed the route free. The crux pitch was done pinkpoint (with pre-placed gear), on the fourth go, the others were redpointed. The name refers to the second pitch, that has a beautiful traverse on knobs.

Climbs with this level of free climbing difficulty seldom happen in Patagonia, where the “anything goes” (aid, jumaring, etc) attitude is still the norm. Undoubtedly free climbing is where the future lays. This sport relies on a good number of “crutches” (compromises), and it is clear that the fewer, the better. Kudos to “Jumbo” and “Nagato” for the commitment to freeclimbing.

Approach. Glaciar Marconi.

Gear. For a repeat carry doubles to #3, 1 ea. 4 & 5, 6 TCUs, stoppers.

Descent. Via the south face (four rappels) to reach the gully between Tito Carrasco and Tridente and then down this to back to the base.

 


Kakito

Pollone Group - west aspect detail

 

Kakito

Pollone Group overview

   



Please Do Not Reprint This Article
.
This article is copyrighted. Please do not reprint this article in whole or part, in any form, without obtaining written permission.

Feedback.
if you find any mistakes or if you have additional information, please go to the contact page and let us know.

Pollone Group Cerro Pollone1. Cara Sur2. Pilar Oeste, A Fine Piece14. Escama del Dragon Pollone Cumbre Este8. Re Puesto!3. Mastica e Sputa3.1 Rayuela3.2 El Busca Jesus4. Beg, Borrow or Steal TraverseTravesía del Pollone Aguja Stefan5. Aguja Stefan Aguja Pollone 1. Cara Sur2. La Granja3. Joviejo4. Sit-Start & Traverse5. Alternate Sit-Start Aguja Tito Carrasco6. Cara Oeste7. Cara Norte12 Terroir11 Zigzag8. Ippon9. Atari10. Halle Berry Punta Amistad13. Alegría El Hombro11. Free Cowboy Hats Gran Gendarme del Pollone1. Cara Este2.Witches Brew3.No Entiendo4.The Perfekt Day El Tridente y Cumbrecitas1. La Piqueta Voladora2. The Secret of the Mountain3. Knob-maniaCumbrecitas

SITEMAP

If you find this web page useful, please consider making a donation

CLIMBING AREAS
Chaltén Massif
Cerro San Lorenzo
Cerro Murallón
Cerro Riso Patron
Cerro Catedral/Frey
Tetons (USA)

FIELD NOTES
Trail restoration work
Acces/Acceso

KNOWLEDGEDISCLAIMER COPYRIGHT CONTACT DONATE
Weather
Resources