Cerro Pollone – Cumbre Este– East face
8. Re Puesto!
600m 65° 6b A1 M?
Neil Kauffman and Jim Toman (USA), 1/1/2011.
Description. In the initial rock buttress the line somewhat weaves through dangerous seracs on both sides A chossy moss crack leads to a nice gritty granite crack and a physical chimney followed by superb cracks on high quality stone and an exposed 10 meter hand traverse. More loose gritty granite leads to a 200-meter snowfield and the east ridge. The ridge climbing is just incredible and involves some alpine trickery, including a pendulum left to a short A1 pitch to avoid a blank slab. More exposed traversing below the ridge (6b) leads to a strenuous off-width followed by a short section involving aid and one last slab to reach the summit. In all 13 pitches.
History. This was the first ascent of the Cumbre Este of Cerro Pollone. Jim and Neil climbed the route in one day, making a short bivy during the descent.
Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.
Photos (click to enlarge)
Cerro Pollone - Southeast face
Cerro Pollone - South face