Cerro Pollone – Cumbre Este– East and south face

3. Mastica e Sputa

3.1 Rayuela
3.2 El Busca Jesus

500m 85˚ M5

Luigi Crippa and Lorenzo Nadali (Italy), 10/1996.

Description. The initial four pitches offer good ice and go easily. These are followed by an ice runnel that narrows to 50cm and on occasions is no more than 10-15cm wide and sometimes 5 cm thick (one or two pitons in place). At the shoulder the route traverses west to a narrow but not overly steep smear that after three pitches -some run out- leads to a small saddle in the ridge where the route ends. It is possible to traverse east to reach the summit of Cumbre Este.

Beware that the approach to the first pitch is exposed to serac fall.

History. Nadali had noticed this line the previous year when he completed the first ascent of Ensueño on Cerro Fitz Roy. He paired with Crippa, a well known ice climber with hard winter ascents and ice climbs in the Dolomites as well as a number of mixed routes on Ben Nevis. The name means “chew and spit” and refers to the song "Ho Visto Nina Volar"e by Italian singer song writer Fabrizio de Andre. Second ascent: French Laurence Monoyeur and Bruno Sourzac made the second ascent less than two months after the first ascent Solo ascent: On September 22th, 2015, one day before the winter equinox, Marc-Andre Leclerc free-soloed the upper half of the route, having climbed the Rayuela variation in the lower part. Just like the first ascentionists and other repeat ascent, he retreated upon reaching the ridge, without continuing to the summt.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Descent. After five raps along the line of ascent head west on a 50° slope to a couloir to the south along which via two more raps you get back to flat ground.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Cerro Pollone - Southeast face

Cerro Pollone - South face

Cerro Pollone – East summit – Lower buttress - South face

3.1 Rayuela

300m WI4 M5

Oriol Baro (Cataluña) and Manuel Quiroga (Argentina), late 2009.

Description. Six pitches involving ice and mixed, to the far left of the lower buttress, left of Beg, Borrow and Steal. After those six pitches one can join the upper three pitches of Mastica e Sputa to reach the summit ridge. This is a phenomenal line, well worth climbing if it is formed. The climbing deserves five stars.

History. Baro and Quiroga intended to repeat Mastica e Sputa, but the dangerous serac right of the start discouraged them, so they found this line as an alternate start. Solo ascent: On September 22th, 2015, one day before the winter equinox, Marc-Andre Leclerc free-soloed the route, linking it with the upper portion of Mastica e Sputa, which he also free-soloed.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado.

Descent. Head west on a 50° slope to a couloir to the south along which via two raps you get back to where you started.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Cerro Pollone - South face

Cerro Pollone – South face

3.2 El Busca Jesus

200m WI4 M5

Tony Richardson - Jon Simms (Canada), early 2014 (to the ridge).

Description. Climbs the first three pitches (WI4, WI4 and WI3) of Rayuela to then steer left, climbing mixed ground (M5) to a snowfield, to a short mixed step (M4). At the big snowfield head up and left to an obvious corner that leads to the ridge (120m, WI4). The first ascensionists retreated upon reaching the ridge.

History. The upper portion of Rayuela was not properly formed hence why the first ascensionists headed left. Regarding the name, Richardson and Simms did not find religion in Patagonia. The name refers to a song by the local group Siete Venas, El Busca, combined with the name of the group's base player, Jesus. The latter hosted Richardson and Simms at his hostel and played endless jam sessions with Simms.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado.

Descent. Rappel the upper part, then continue straight down the east side of the glacier to reach a should and rappel a couloir to the east (two rappels).

Cerro Pollone - South face