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Update: last updated on 04/02/2015.

Aguja Guillaumet - West face


27. Von Bürgermeister

400m 7a

Ben Erdmann and Jonathan Schaffer (US), 1/2015.

Description. Climbs a line on the right side of the face, just to the right of Rayo de Luz. The cracks are of varied sizes, with one off-width section involving a 20 meters long 7" crack. The crux is on the thrid pitch. The rock is solid throughout. No gear was left in place. Eleven pitches total.

History. The route name refers to the "boss"

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.

Pro. 2ea to #3, one 4 and one 5; 1ea TCUs, one set of stoppers.

Descent. Rappel Rayo de Luz, the route immediately left which has bolted anchors.


Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

   



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Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de Luz27. Von BürgermeisterSouth ridge & summit6. Travesia Cresta Sur6.1 Cumbre y Cresta SurEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena28. ¡Aupa 40!12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear

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