Aguja Guillaumet - East face
7. The Gambler
450m WI6 M7
Topher Donahue and Jared Ogden (USA), December 2001.
Description. This route follows a line on the far left side of the face, climbing a series of very steep grooves filled with ice, which are very sustained. Donahue and Ogden took 12 hours to complete the route which they climbed in “winter” conditions, as a mixed and ice climb, with five pitches rated M7, and sections of WI6. The line ends in the ridge, between two prominent gendarmes. Ogden called it the most difficult and longest mixed climb he had done. Needless to say it is a very conditions dependant climb. Good ice conditions are seen very seldom in this area.
History. This line had been attempted in 1998 by Andy Cave and Dave Heslesden (UK) who started slightly left and retreated after climbing 2/3rds of the way up. In early 2012 Charly Cabezas and Diego Simari (AR) climbed a variation up the obvious pilar to the right, following flakes and a crack to an off-width. They found difficulties to 6b and called it Tierra de Traucas (7.1).
Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas, or via Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.
Descent. Via the same route.
Cave: Hgh 203 p. 86.