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Aguja Guillaumet - East face

15. Amy-Vidailhet

180m 65˚ 5

Bernard Amy and Pierre Vidailhet (France), 27/2/1968.

Description. Climbs the couloir immediately left of the north buttress. At the col it joins the Comesaña-Fonrouge along which it continues to the summit (300m altogether). It involves easy snow climbing as well as a short rock climbing section to reach the summit snowfield. A good alternative for marginal weather days. It can be crowded. It is the easiest route up any of the “granite” summits.

Approach. Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

History. This couloir was climbed as a consolation prize after an unsuccessful attempt on Fitz Roy’s east pillar. Other members of the same French expedition completed the first ascent of the so-called Guillot couloir the day before. Solo ascents. Manuel Gomez Trujillo (ES) 1999, Bruno Sourzac (FR) 2000, Frank Herreghewe (BE) 2000, many solo ascents since. Winter ascents. Andy Kirkpatrick, Nick Lewis, Jim Hall and Paul Ramsden (UK) in July 1999. Several other winter ascents since. Winter solo. Markus Pucher (AT), 8/2017.

Descent. Descend the route.

Amy: Annales GHM 1969 page 29.
Kirkpatrick: Climbing 189 p. 30; High 203 p. 85; Climber 11/99, p. 42-49.

Aguja Guillaumet - Cara este

15. Amy-Vidailhet

180m 65˚ 5

Bernard Amy y Pierre Vidailhet (FR), 27/2/1968.

Descripción. Esta es la vía más fácil a la cumbre de cualquiera de las torres de granito del macizo. Suele estar muy concurrida, peligrosamente concurrida. Es una linda vía, corta y fácil, pero bien alpina. Se junta con la Comesaña­Fonrouge 150 metros por debajo de la cumbre (350m, 65˚ 5 en total). Pasar la rimaya es usualmente el paso clave.

Aproximación. Piedra Negra a Paso Guillaumet.

Historia. Solo. Bruno Sourzac (FR), 2000; Frank Herreghewe (BE) pocos días más tarde; muchos otros. Invernal. Andy Kirkpatrick, Nick Lewis, Jim Hall y Paul Ramsden (UK), Julio de 1999. Invernal solo. Markus Pucher (AT), 8/2017.

Descenso. Rapelar la vía.

Amy: Annales GHM 1969 page 29.
Kirkpatrick: Climbing 189 p. 30; High 203 p. 85; Climber 11/99, p. 42-49.



Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face / cara este


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Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de Luz27. Von BürgermeisterSouth ridge6. Travesia Cresta SurCumbre Sur30. Cumbre Sur30.1 Plata o PlomoEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena28. ¡Aupa 40!12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons29 Pilar del Quinto Sol15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear


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