Aguja Guillaumet - West face
450 m 6a C2
Erich and Stefan Gatt (Austria) 21-22/2/1993.
Description. Climbs a line in the center of the west face to reach the base of the overhanging summit nose. Here there are two options, the first ascentionists traversed down and right to exit via a crack to the far right of the summit overhang, while Freddie Wilkinson and Dana Drummond during the second ascent climbed a up the “Fissure Mad Dog”, a burly off-width and squeeze chimney system that tops out only 15m south of the true summit. Freddie and Dana called this two-pitch variation the “highlight” of the route. Eleven to seventeen pitches depending on your choice of belays stations. Most of the route can be climbed free except for a few moves of aid here and there to bypass icy sections.
History. The first ascent was done in alpine style with one bivouac, while the second ascent took just one day. Freddie and Dana thought to have climbed a new route, which they dubbed “Lost Men” and it was only two years later that it became clear that it was a repeat of the Gatt’s line. The route is name after he fact that is was a father and son team that climbed it, padre - hijo.
Approach. Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.
Descent. Via the same route, or the nearby Tee Pitelka.
Gatts: AAJ 1995 p. 214.
Wilkinson: AAJ 2008.