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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Aguja Guillaumet - East face


13. Couloir Fowler


13.1 So Long Charlie

250m 80º 5

Charlie Fowler (USA), 2/1/1999.

Description. Climbs a depression to the right of the Pippo Frasson route, following a deep chimney/goullotte, that involves mixed and ice climbing. Charlie self-belayed four of the six mixed pitches. With fat ice conditions t is a direct and interesting route to the summit .

History. Fowler was a well known American climber and alpinist who died while attempting to climb a mountain in southwestern China in 2006. He had climbed very extensively in North America, doing bigwalls, waterfalls, free climbs, crazy solos and all sorts of impressive climbs. Outside of North America he also climbed extensively in Peru, Nepal, Tibet and Buthan as well as in Patagonia where he established a number of new routes and accomplished a number of important solo ascents.

Approach. Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Descent. Amy-Vidailhet.

Bibliography. AAJ 1999 p. 74-79, p.338; High 203 p. 85.


Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

13.1 So Long Charlie

In early 2014 Ben Collett and Josh Finkelstein (US) climbed an ice smear immediately left of the Fowler line. They climbed two new pitches (40m to 80˚ and 60m to WI4). They called this variation "So Long Charlie".

 

   



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Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de Luz27. Von BürgermeisterSouth ridge & summit6. Travesia Cresta Sur6.1 Cumbre y Cresta SurEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena28. ¡Aupa 40!12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear

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