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Update: last updated on 23/02/2014.

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Aguja Guillaumet - North ridge


16. Brenner-Moschioni



300m 30˚ 6b

Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni (Argentina), 21/1/1981.

Description. A wonderful route on excellent rock, well worth repeating. The crux pitch can be climbed by any of the three cracks, the left most one being the easiest (6b). There are countless variations to this route. The most commonly climbed line accesses the crux pitch via the ridge climbing two pitches (5), then climbing the left crux crack to then head left, up a groove (5+), to a thin dihedral (5) and a steep double crack (6a+) to reach the ridge (4) and the Amy route, along which it continues to the top (5).

History. During the first ascent they fixed the first two pitches and went on to completed the ascent with two bivies, one on the way up and one on the descent. Eduardo, a very well loved Argentine climber, one of the most gifted ones of his generation, died seven years later in an unfortunate river rafting accident in the Rio Las Vueltas, just a few kilometers from El Chalten. Solo ascents. Italian Korra Pesce did the first solo ascent in 2011. Carsten Von Birrckhahn did the second less than two months later.

Approach. Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Descent. Either the Amy-Vidailhet or Comesaña-Fonrouge routes could be good descent alternatives. There are rap anchors along the Brenner route, but they require beefing up.

Bibliography. Anuario CAB 1982 p.102-105; AAJ 1982 p.195; Boletin CABA Sept. 1981 p. 4.


16.1 Carlo

A six pitch variation to the right put up by Italians Simone Pedeferri and Alberto Marazzi in February 2004 with difficulties to 6c/A0. It starts at the snowfield at the base of the north face.

Aguja Guillaumet - Filo norte


16. Brenner-Moschioni



300m 30˚ 6b

Eduardo Brenner y Eduardo Moschioni (Argentina), 21/1/1981.

Description. Una vía excelente, en roca perfecta. El largo clave escala una de tres fisuras, la de la izquierda es la más fácil (6b). Hay innumerables variantes posibles. Se junta con la Comesaña­Fonrouge 150 por debajo de la cumbre (450m, 300 6b en total).

Historia. En 1988 Brenner murió ahogado en el Río de las Vueltas como resultado de un accidente de rafting. Era una persona sumamente querida y carismática, como así también uno de los mejores escala­ dores argentinos del momento. Solo. Korra Pesce (IT), 12/2011; Carsten von Birckhahn (DE), 1/2012.

Aproximación. Piedra Negra a Paso Guillaumet.

Descenso. Por la Amy-Vidailhet o la Comesaña-Fonrouge.

Bibliografía. Anuario CAB 1982 p.102-105; AAJ 1982 p.195; Boletin CABA Sept. 1981 p. 4.


16.1 Carlo

200m, 6c A0; Alberto Marazzi-Simone Pedeferri (IT), 2/2004; seis largos nuevos.

 

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet north face

Guillaumet north face / cara norte

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face / cara este

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face / cara oeste

   



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Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de Luz27. Von BürgermeisterSouth ridge & summit6. Travesia Cresta Sur6.1 Cumbre y Cresta SurEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena28. ¡Aupa 40!12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear

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