Aguja Guillaumet - North ridge


16. Brenner-Moschioni


350 m 6b to 6c

Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni (Argentina), 21/1/1981.

Description. A wonderful route on excellent rock, well worth repeating. The crux pitch can be climbed by any of the three cracks, the left most one being the easiest (6b). There are countless variations to this route. The most commonly climbed line accesses the crux pitch via the ridge climbing two pitches (5), then climbing the left crux crack to then head left, up a groove (5+), to a thin dihedral (5) and a steep double crack (6a+) to reach the ridge (4) and the Amy route, along which it continues to the top (5).

History. During the first ascent they fixed the first two pitches and went on to completed the ascent with two bivies, one on the way up and one on the descent. Eduardo, a very well loved Argentine climber, one of the most gifted ones of his generation, died seven years later in an unfortunate river rafting accident in the Rio Las Vueltas, just a few kilometers from El Chalten.
Solo ascent. Italian Korra Pesce did the first solo ascent of the route in 2011.

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Pro. Standard rock rack.

Descent. Either the Amy or Comesaña routes could be good descent alternatives. There are rap anchors along the Brenner route, but they require beefing up.

Bibliography. Anuario CAB 1982 p.102-105; AAJ 1982 p.195; Boletin CABA Sept. 1981 p. 4.