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Update: last updated on 01/02/2012.

Aguja Guillaumet - West face


22. Manos al Cielo


250m 7a

Scott Bennett and Cheyne Lempe (USA), 01/2012.

Description. Climbs a line on the right side of the face, to the right of Tee Pitelka which it joins after 7 pitches. It starts up an obvious corner/chimney system between Tee Pitelka and Rayo de Luz, then climbs into a steep hanging corner immediately left, to reach a series of ledges where it joins Tee Pitelka to follow it all the way to the ridge line (400m altogether). The worst of the chimney gnar can be avoided by climbing cracks to the left. The lower half of the route is stellar, involving clean and steep handcracks.

History. Scott and Cheyne climbed the route in a single day, all free, redpointing every pitch. The route is named and dedicate to Carlyle Norman, a young Canadian climber who suffered a tragic accident on Aguja Saint Exupery the very same day this route was climbed. This is Scott's second new route in the west face of Guillaumet.

Approach. Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.

Descent. The easiest descent is via Tee Pitelka, that has bolted anchors and rap slings.


Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

Guillaumet west face

   



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Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de LuzSouth ridge & summit6. Travesia Cresta Sur6.1 Cumbre y Cresta SurEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear

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