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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Aguja Guillaumet - East face

12. Pippo Frasson

300m 80º 5

Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin (Italy), 27/12/1981.

Description. Climbs an obvious depression in the very center of the east face, following a series of continuous cracks and dihedrals for three pitches, that lead to mixed ground and some more vertical rock in the upper part. The upper snowfield is a little steeper than you might expect so be sure to bring basic ice gear along.

History. The route was named in memory of the Argentine climber of Italian origin Pippo Frasson, who was the president of Club Andino Buenos Aires, who died while attempting Fitz Roy in 1974.

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet, or via Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas.

Descent. Amy-Vidailhet.

Bibliography. AAJ 1983 p. 211; Metzeltin S. (1984) Alpinismo a tempo pieno, Dall’Oglio, Milano (p. 170-171).

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

12.1. Variation

Daniel Anker and Thomas Wüschner (Switzerland), 8/12/1983.

Description. They climbed a series of snowfields to the right of the Pippo Frasson route, joining it for half of the steep rock climbing section, before heading left on the upper portion.

Bibliography. AAJ 1984, p 219; Le Alpi 1984/1 p. 61-75; Desnivel 14 p. 6.

12.2. Variation

Bryan Becker and Richard Aschert (USA), 31/1/1996

Description. They climbed a series of snowfields and ice ramps just to the left of it. Ice and snow to 50º.

Bibliography. AAJ 1997 p. 251; High 164 p. 32.


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Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de Luz27. Von BürgermeisterSouth ridge6. Travesia Cresta SurCumbre Sur30. Cumbre Sur30.1 Plata o PlomoEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena28. ¡Aupa 40!12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons29 Pilar del Quinto Sol15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear


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