Aguja Guillaumet - East face


14. Guillot-Conqueugniot


250m 70º 5

Joël Coqueugniot and François Guillot (France), 26/2/1968.

Description. Climbs the couloir immediately left of the Amy-Vidailhet. It involves some mixed climbing as well as a short rock climbing section to reach the summit snowfield. A good alternative for days when the Amy couloir is overcrowded...

Approach. Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

History. This couloir was climbed as a consolation prize after an unsuccessful attempt on Fitz Roy’s east pillar. A day later other members of the same French expedition completed the first ascent of the Amy-Vidailhet couloir, completing the second and third ascents of Guillaumet.

Descent. Descend via the Amy-Vidailhet couloir.

Bibliography. Annales GHM 1969 p.29.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face