Aguja Guillaumet - South ridge
6. Travesía Cresta Sur
6.1- Cumbre y Cresta Sur
Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse (UK) 12/12/1976.
Description. After climbing the Guillot-Conqueugniot couloir the first ascentionists traversed the summit ridge towards the south, descending to the notch between Mermoz and Guillaumet. From the summit of Guillaumet move down and left (SE) to a small notch, rap 20m to the west, scramble horizontally across the ridge for about 80 meters, then drop to the west down-climbing easy but exposed terrain, traverse south slightly and rappel 30 meters twice until you reach a faint ledge that allows you to climb across (60 meters) to a dihedral immediately north of the south summit. Climb the dihedral to a notch on the ridge itself, cross over to the east side of the ridge and traverse south across a snowfield. On the south side of the snowfield rappel twice –heading skiers right- to a shoulder on the south side of the south summit. Move to the west side of the shoulder and rappel four times (three 30m raps and one last 60m rap) to reach the chimney that separates Guillaumet from Mermoz. Climb up the chimney for 20 meters and traverse right to join the ruta Argentina on Mermoz.
History. This was one of many ascents that Carrington and Rouse accomplished during their expedition which included a new route on Aguja Poincenot, a first ascent in the Piergiorgio valley and a valiant attempt on the SW face of Fitz. During that expedition they spent close to one year in South America, climbing in Peru and other areas. Carrington stayed for many months in Buenos Aires, where he worked for Hector Vieytes, a down jacket and sleeping bag manufacturer. Sometime after getting home Carrington with his new found stitching knowledge started Rab.
The Carrington-Rouse traverse was repeated to accomplish the “Motocross” traverse, a traverse from Paso Guillaumet, via the Brenner route to Guillaument’s summit and on to Mermoz’s summit, completed by Slovenes Klemen Mali and Rok Sisernik in 2006 in 11.5 hours. Later the Carrington-Rouse traverse was repeated to complete the Care Bear Traverse, a traverse from Guillaumet to Fitz Roy via Mermoz and Val Biois, completed by Dana Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson (USA) in 2008 and repeated three times since.
Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra.
Descent. Via the ruta Argentina on Aguja Mermoz.
Bibliography. Mountain. 58 p.18-21; AAJ 1978 p.581-583; Climbing 47 p.5-11.
Photos (click to enlarge)
Guillaumet east face
Guillaumet south ridge
Guillaumet west face
6.1- Crumbre y Cresta Sur
Peter Lüthi (Switzerland), Carlos Dominguez and Horacio Bresba (Argentina), 20/3/1990.
Description. Reverse version of the Carrington-Rouse traverse, involving an ascent of the south summit of Guillaumet, which was unclimbed. They climbed to right below the notch that separates Mermoz from Guillaumet via Mermoz’s ruta Argentina, climbing steep cracks to Guillaumet’s South summit, from which they rappelled 45 meters to the summit ridge which they traversed north to reach the main summit.
History. This was one of several unclimbed summits that Pedro Luthi climbed in the area, which include also the first ascent of Aguja Bifida and the first ascent of Aguja de la Silla. Bresba died of hypothermia a couple of years later while descending Fitz Roy in a bad storm, while Luthi, after living for over twenty years in Argentina is currently back in his native Saint Moritz, bracing himself for the end of the world as we know it.
Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.
Descent. Via the Comesaña-Fonrouge or the Amy-Vidailhet routes.