Aguja Guillaumet - North face


17. Guillotina


300 m 7a+?

Luciano Fiorenza and Federico Arletti (Argentina), 2/2010.

Description. Starts up a right leaning corner, near the highest point of the snowfield, at the base of the north face.

History. During a period of two weeks in late February 2010 Luciano went on to open more than 40 new pitches in the area, including the ten in this route, plus 18 in a new route in the west face of Fitz Roy (Historia sin Fin) and over 20 in another line on the north face of Fitz (Clínica de Aventura).

In 2/2018, Matías Korten, Agustín Mailing (AR) and Caroline North (DE), sort of freeclimbed this route. Going ground up both Mati and Caro took falls on the crux pitch, a sustained 50 meter crack, and decided to continue up without redpointing. While hanging out at the summit they looked at the topo and realized that the first ascensionists had broken up that crux pitch into two short pitches at a hanging belay. Descending Agustín, Mati and Caro stopped at a hanging belay somewhere in the middle of that pitch and sent the second half, as a separate pitch. A continuous (bottom to top) proper free ascent, and without the use of the hanging belay in the middle of the sustained crux pitch, remains to be done.

Approach. Piedra Negra.

Descent. Via the same route or the nearby Comesaña-Fonrouge route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet north face