23. Patagonian Werewolfs
400m 30˚ 7a A1
Marcos Costa (Brazil-China) and Sergey Dashkevich (Russia), 3/2012.
Description. Climbs a line between Disfrute la Vida and the Desconocido años 80 route, moving right to link crack systems at the start to then follow an obvious steep crack system to the top. The rock is of excellent quality and involves every variety of crack climbing: off-widths, chimneys, hand-cracks, finger-cracks as well as several slabs in between crack systems. No gear was left in place except three stoppers and not a single bolt was placed. 12 pitches in all.
History. The first ascensionists climbed the route in a single day from Piedra Negra and back. They onsighted every pitch to pitch six, when they changed to "standard russian competition style climbing" using the fastest combination of free and aid climbing so as to finish the route in a single day.
Approach. Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.
Gear. The first ascensionists recomend bringing two "hook pitons," a "special russian weapon" that can be best described as a "crack hook", a bigger birdbeak. If you don't have any of these "special russian weapons" be sure to take a few thin pitons with you.
Descent. Via the Comesaña-Fonrouge or Amy-Vidailhet routes. |
