Aguja Guillaumet - Northwest ridge
1. Comesaña-Fonrouge
1.1 Cuiñas - Rosasco
1.2 Giordani
400m 30˚ 6b+
José Luis Fonrouge and Carlos “Pampero” Comesaña (ARG). 11-12.1.1965.
Description. This route is a perfect choice for a first climb in the area. The route climbs a steep snowfield (40˚/50˚) at the base of the north face, to a ledge that gives access to the buttress. Easy terrain following the crest (4/5) leads to a steep 25 meter long dihedral which is the crux (6b+ or A1), after which a short traverse (15 meters) to the left leads to an easy dihedral (40 meters, 5+) which finishes at the base of the summit ridge. A couple of more pitches on the left, west side of the ridge (3 and 4, with one short bit of 5) lead to the summit snowfield (30˚), which late in the season can be avoided by climbing easy rock on its right side. Normally boots and crampons are necessary to reach the base of the route and often they can be needed to climb the last 70 meters to the summit.
History.This was the first ascent of the peak. The first ascencionists were part of a bigger expedition that included Jorge Ruiz Luque, Martín Dónovan and Antonio “Pirata” Misson. This line was first attempted in early 1964 by Comesaña together with Martin Dónovan, Luis “Titi” Novas, Mariano Lynch and Alejandro and Fernando Di Paola. They managed to climb past the crux pitch, but retreated soon after. On this difficult section they left all the equipment in place, which was great help for the successful ascent that Comesaña completed the following year with Fonrouge. Female team ascent. Marcela Antonutti - Patricia Malatesta (AR), 1994. Male solo ascents. Rolando Garibotti 1988; Horacio Bresba 1992; Victor Rázuri 1995, many others since. Female solo ascent. Josie Mckee (US), 2/2016. Car to car. Caleb Jennings, Daniel Joll, and Alastair Mcdowell (NZ), 9:19hs, via the Giordani Sit Start (1.2), to and from the Río Eléctrico bridge, using no bicycles or a gear cache (2/2018).
Approach. Piedra Negra.
Descent. Via the same route.
Bibliography. Comesaña: Anuario CAB 1967 p. 25-31; AAJ 1966 p. 75-80; Annales GHM 1965 p.36; Fonrouge J.L. (1999) Horizontes Verticales en la Patagonia, El Elefante Blanco, Buenos Aires (p.75-87).
Giordani: AAJ 1992 p.172-173; Annales GHM 1994-95 p.54; Samas (1991) Alpinismo Oggi, p.23-24; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1991/5 p.77; Berg 1992 p.125.
Maspes: High 176 p.76; Rivista Pareti 3 p.20.
1.1 Cuiñas - Rosasco variation
Alfredo Rosasco and Hector Cuiñas (Argentina), 3/1/1979.
Description. Climbs a right slanting banana shaped crack that starts on the left side of the approach snowfield and joins the Comesaña route at the base of the crux pitch.
1.2 Giordani variation
Maurizio Giordani (Italy) solo, 7/12/1990.
Description. Starts at the “last” saddle of the NW ridge, adding an extra 300 meters of moderate (3/4) terrain to the original line. A fun way to make the route longer and more challenging. Luca Maspes (Italy) repeated it also solo in 1996. Car to car. Caleb Jennings, Daniel Joll, and Alastair Mcdowell (NZ), 9:19hs, to and from the Río Eléctrico bridge, summitting via the Comesaña-Fonrouge, using no bicycles or a gear cache (2/2018).
Aguja Guillaumet - Filo noroeste
1. Comesaña-Fonrouge
1.1 Cuiñas - Rosasco
1.2 Giordani
400m 30˚ 6b+
José Luis Fonrouge y Carlos “Pampero” Comesaña (AR), 11-12.1.1965.
Descripción. Una buena elección como primera vía en la zona. El diedro clave puede ser fácilmente escalado en artificial. En condiciones normales es necesario llevar botas, grampones y piqueta, no solo para la aproximación sino también para el nevero final, antes de la cumbre.
Historia. Comesaña hizo un intento en 1964 logrando resolver el largo clave antes de desistir. Cordada femenina. Marcela Antonutti - Patricia Malatesta (AR), 1994. Solo. Rolando Garibotti 1988; Horacio Bresba 1992; Victor Rázuri 1995, otros. Solo femenino. Josie McKee (US), 2/2016. Auto a auto. Nathan Hadley - Andy Wyatt (US), en 11hs por el Giordani Sit Start (1.2), 2/2018.
Aproximación. Piedra Negra.
Descenso. Rapelar la vía.
Bibliografía. Comesaña: Anuario CAB 1967 p. 25-31; AAJ 1966 p. 75-80; Annales GHM 1965 p.36; Fonrouge J.L. (1999) Horizontes Verticales en la Patagonia, El Elefante Blanco, Buenos Aires (p.75-87).
Giordani: AAJ 1992 p.172-173; Annales GHM 1994-95 p.54; Samas (1991) Alpinismo Oggi, p.23-24; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1991/5 p.77; Berg 1992 p.125.
Maspes: High 176 p.76; Rivista Pareti 3 p.20.
1.1 Cuiñas - Rosasco
Alfredo Rosasco y Hector Cuiñas (AR), 3/1/1979.
1.2 Giordani
Maurizio Giordani (Italy) solo, 7/12/1990.
Escala el espolón noroeste desde su inicio (700m en total).
Historia. Auto a auto. Nathan Hadley - Andy Wyatt (US), en 11hs siguiendo a la cumbre por la Comesaña-Fonrouge, 2/2018.
