Other summits around the Fitz Roy
massif.
EAST SIDE.
Punta Velluda and Comedor de los Franceses.
In 1952 French glaciologist Luis Lliboutry named the summit just east of Paso Superior Punta Velluda, after the long black hairy lichens that cover its rocks. Lliboutry was responsible for the first accurate mapping of the area.
Twenty years later, in 1972, members of a large expedition from Rovereto (Italy) led by Armando Aste climbed that small summit and renamed it Cima Rovereto, calling the ridgeline Cresta dei Roveretani. They climbed many of the small summits along this ridgeline, which they named after some of their friends that lost their lives in the mountains: Cima Mario Veronesi, Cima Carlo Tovazzi, Punta Fausto Susatti, Punta Giovanni Gentilini, Punta Armando Cubeddu, Cima Ezio Polo and Punta Daniele Martinazzi.
The ridge that separates the watershed of Laguna de los Tres from that of Laguna Sucia is commonly known as Comedor de los Franceses, so named because the members of the 1952 French expedition that completed the first ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy usually stopped at its very end to have lunch before tackling the glacier leading to Paso Superior. Mariano Frizzera, Angelo Miorandi, Franco Solina and Armando Aste first climbed this ridge in 1972 and renamed it Cresta del Centenario SAT. On their last day in the area they climbed a series of small summits of minor importance along this ridge that they named Cima degli Amici, Cima Volano, Cima Carlo Marchiodi, Punta Bepi Loss, Punta Marco Dal Bianco, Cima Borgo Sacco, Cima Mompiano, Punta Donato Zeni and Punta dell’ Ideale that Aste climbed by himself. Armando Aste commented regarding these ascents: “...ma la importanza di questo è relativa; contano soltanto I nomi che sono ricordati.”
In spite of all the renaming by the Rovereto expedition it is the original names given by Lliboutry that have endured.
Bibliography. Lliboutry L. (1952) Estudio Cartografico, Geologico y Glaciologico de la Zona del Fitz Roy, , Facultad de Filosofia y Letras, Buenos Aires, Argentina; Bolletino SAT 172/2 p. 52-56; Mario Fantin (1972) Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo, Commissione Centrale delle Pubblicazioni, Club Alpino Italiano, p. 854-855; Aste A. (1975) Pilastri del Cielo, Reverito, Trento, p. 240-279; Aste A. (1988) Cuore di roccia, Manfrini Editori, Calliano (TN) p. 196-214.
Cerro Madsen.
The peak immediately north of Laguna de los Tres was christened in honor of Andreas Madsen, one of the first white men to inhabit in this area. It is an interesting peak that provides breathtaking views of the range. Likely Lliboutry was responsible for the naming of this peak.
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Photos (click to enlarge)
Filo Del Hombre Sentado, Punta Anna
and Punta Leila.
Comedor de los Franceses, Cerro
Madsen, Punta Velluda and Vastillo
Negro.
Comedor de los Franceses and Cerro
Madsen.
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WEST SIDE.
Filo Del Hombre Sentado, 2150 m.
The ridge between Fitz Roy’s west buttress and Boquete del Piergiorgio is called Filo Del Hombre Sentado (Sitting Man ridge). It was named after the obvious tower on its west side, that when seen from the Cerro Torre valley appears to be just that. Hans Zechner originally named it Cerro Muñeco (Mannequin peak) but his playful name was unfortunately overwritten (see Anuario CAB 1950 p. 22).
Boquete del Piergiorgio is the pass between Filo del Hombre Sentado and cerros Piergiorgio and Domo Blanco. This is where the northern Fitz Roy glacier and the Torre glacier begin and is the watershed divide for the Fitz Roy and Electrico rivers. The 1937 Italian expedition led by Aldo Bonacossa named this pass Paso Fitz Roy, but their original name was overwritten.
Filo del Hombre Sentado can be approached from the Electrico valley or from the Cerro Torre valley.
In 1958 Italian Cesare Maestri climbed the two towers at the west end of the ridge. He approached from the Torre valley and christened them Punta Anna and Punta Lelia. Punta Anna, which he named after his sister is the western most tower on the ridge, the one that for years has been refferred to as the "Hombre Sentado". Punta Lelia is the tower immediately east of Punta Anna. In 1984 an all female party climbed Punta Lelia and renamed it Punta Mujer. The original name withstands.
These days the Filo del Hombre Sentado ridge is part of the approach to climb certain Fitz Roy routes from the Cerro Torre valley.
Bibliography.
Bonacossa: Bonacossa A. (1980) Una Vita per la Montagna, Tamari, Bologna.
Maestri: CAI-Rivista Mensile 1958/3-4 p. 112, p. 114; CAI-AIM 1972/2 p. 836; Lo Scarpone 1957/23; Lo Scarpone 1958/1; Lo Scarpone 1958/2; Lo Scarpone 1958/5; Lo Scarpone 1958/21 p. 3; Italiani sulle Montagne dell Mondo p. 273-274; Bolletino SAT 1958/2 p. 3-8; Maestri C. (1961) Arrampicare il mio Mestiere, Garzanti, Milano (p. 77-80). |