Aguja Guillaumet - East face


14. Guillot-Conqueugniot

14.1 Richard-Simmons

200m 70˚ 5

Joël Coqueugniot and François Guillot (France), 26/2/1968.

Description. Climbs the couloir immediately left of the Amy-Vidailhet. At the col it joins the Comesaña-Fonrouge along which it continues to the summit (300m altogether). A good alternative for days when the Amy couloir is overcrowded.

Approach. Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

History. This couloir was climbed as a consolation prize after an unsuccessful attempt on Fitz Roy’s east pillar. A day later other members of the same French expedition completed the first ascent of the Amy-Vidailhet couloir, completing the second and third ascents of Guillaumet.

Descent. Descend via the Amy-Vidailhet couloir.

Bibliography. Annales GHM 1969 p.29.

14.1 Richard-Simmons

80m 80º (AI4)

Tony Richardson - Jon Simms (Canada), early 2014.

Description. Climbs two beautiful pitches up and left from a variation to the Coqueugniot-Guillot. Both pitches climb ice-filled corners (60m AI4, 50m AI3+). It is a great alternative for days when the Amy-Vidailhet and Coqueugniot-Guillot routes are crowded. It exits directly to the summit snowfield, avoiding the bottleneck that tends to happen on the last rock pitches of the Comesaña-Fonrouge where many popular routes converge.

History. The first ascensionists named the route following the trend in the east face of Guillaumet, where many routes are named with the ascensionists last names. In this case they made a slight variation, shortening one and legthening the other (is Jon envious of Tony's length?).