Aguja Guillaumet - East face


12. Pippo Frasson


300m 80º 5

Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin (Italy), 27/12/1981.

Description. Climbs an obvious depression in the very center of the east face, following a series of continuous cracks and dihedrals for three pitches, that lead to mixed ground and some more vertical rock in the upper part. The upper snowfield is a little steeper than you might expect so be sure to bring basic ice gear along.

History. The route was named in memory of the Argentine climber of Italian origin Pippo Frasson, who was the president of Club Andino Buenos Aires, who died while attempting Fitz Roy in 1974.

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet, or via Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas.

Descent. Amy-Vidailhet.

Bibliography. AAJ 1983 p. 211; Metzeltin S. (1984) Alpinismo a tempo pieno, Dall’Oglio, Milano (p. 170-171).

12.1. Variation

Daniel Anker and Thomas Wüschner (Switzerland), 8/12/1983.

Description. They climbed a series of snowfields to the right of the Pippo Frasson route, joining it for half of the steep rock climbing section, before heading left on the upper portion.

Bibliography. AAJ 1984, p 219; Le Alpi 1984/1 p. 61-75; Desnivel 14 p. 6.