Aguja Guillaumet - East face
10. Anker - Piola
450m 50˚ 6b A0
Daniel Anker and Michel Piola (CH), 12/1/1989.
Description. Follows a discontinuous line of cracks and flakes on the left side of the east buttress, climbing ten pitches on rock that at times is not of the best quality. From the top of the pillar 50º snow leads to the summit.
History. During that visit Piola and Anker waited for good weather in the Piergiorgio valley for about a month, until they run out of time and had to go home. The day they were supposed to leave they changed their minds, and decided to stay an extra ten days. During those ten days, and in spite of mostly bad weather they climbed four new routes, an impressive one on Poincenot, a very enjoyable one on El Mocho, plus one on Innominata and this one of Guillaument. The name of the article Piola wrote for Mountain Magazine back then was “Patagonicos Desesperados”, a name that likely explains well the frustration they so successfully channeled into such a ferocious spree of activity.
Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas, or via Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.
Descent. Descend via the Amy-Vidailhet couloir.
Bibliography. Mountain 130 p. 20-25; Vertical 32 p. 28-37; AAJ 1990 p. 206-208.
|
