Aguja Guillaumet - North ridge
16. Brenner-Moschioni
300m 30˚ 6b
Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni (Argentina), 21/1/1981.
Description. A wonderful route on excellent rock, well worth repeating. The crux pitch can be climbed by any of the three cracks, the left most one being the easiest (6b). There are countless variations to this route. The most commonly climbed line accesses the crux pitch via the ridge climbing two pitches (5), then climbing the left crux crack to then head left, up a groove (5+), to a thin dihedral (5) and a steep double crack (6a+) to reach the ridge (4) and the Comesaña-Fonrouge route, along which it continues to the top (5 - 450m altogether).
History. During the first ascent they fixed the first two pitches and went on to completed the ascent with two bivies, one on the way up and one on the descent. Eduardo, a very well loved Argentine climber, one of the most gifted ones of his generation, died seven years later in an unfortunate river rafting accident in the Rio Las Vueltas, just a few kilometers from El Chalten. Solo ascents. Italian Korra Pesce did the first solo ascent in 2011. Carsten Von Birrckhahn did the second less than two months later.
Approach. Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.
Descent. Either the Amy-Vidailhet or Comesaña-Fonrouge routes could be good descent alternatives. There are rap anchors along the Brenner route, but they require beefing up.
Bibliography. Anuario CAB 1982 p.102-105; AAJ 1982 p.195; Boletin CABA Sept. 1981 p. 4.
16.1 Carlo
Simone Pedeferri and Alberto Marazzi (IT), 2/2004
Six pitch variation with difficulties to 6c. The corner up high is 60 meters long and is stellar, offering very high quality climbing. In 1/2018 Austin Siadak and Colin Haley (US) climbed an alternate start just to the left (6b+, one short section runout).
Aguja Guillaumet - Filo norte
16. Brenner-Moschioni
300m 30˚ 6b
Eduardo Brenner y Eduardo Moschioni (Argentina), 21/1/1981.
Description. Una vía excelente, en roca perfecta. El largo clave escala una de tres fisuras, la de la izquierda es la más fácil (6b). Hay innumerables variantes posibles. Se junta con la ComesañaFonrouge 150 por debajo de la cumbre (450m, 300 6b en total).
Historia. En 1988 Brenner murió ahogado en el Río de las Vueltas como resultado de un accidente de rafting. Era una persona sumamente querida y carismática, como así también uno de los mejores escala dores argentinos del momento. Solo. Korra Pesce (IT), 12/2011; Carsten von Birckhahn (DE), 1/2012.
Aproximación. Piedra Negra a Paso Guillaumet.
Descenso. Por la Amy-Vidailhet o la Comesaña-Fonrouge.
Bibliografía. Anuario CAB 1982 p.102-105; AAJ 1982 p.195; Boletin CABA Sept. 1981 p. 4.
16.1 Carlo
Alberto Marazzi y Simone Pedeferri (IT), 2/2004.
Variante de seis largos (6c). El diedro de arriba es espectacular, 60 metros de granito perfecto. En 1/2018 Austin Siadak y Colin Haley escalaron un comienzo alternativo, justo a la izquierda (6b+, una seccion expuesta).
