Aguja Guillaumet - East face


24. Dirigo


300m 50˚ 6b C1

Pete Fasoldt and Eli Simon (US), 2/2013.

Description. It begins north (right) of the Anker-Piola route and stays south (left) of the Eslovena route. They climbed the route in 8 pitches, with some simul-climbing. Most pitches were in the 6a/b range and went free except for two short sections (3 meters) of C1. The rock was mostly of decent quality with a few sections of kitty litter. On pitch four they climbed onto the east buttress (Eslovena) for about 20m before heading left into more unclimbed terrain. Later in Joins the Anker-Piola (450m altogether).

History. They climbed the route in a day and named it Dirigo which is latin for "I lead", and is the State of Maine's motto.

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas, or via Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Gear. They carried doubles to #3 and one #4.  

Descent. Ski the Amy-Vidailhet couloir.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face