TRIOLOGIA INCA

Agujas Inti, Atchachila and Pachamama.

Description. These are three obvious towers just north of Aguja Bifida and Punta Filip, on the ridge between these and Aguja Cuatro Dedos. From North to South they are called: Inti, Atchachila and Pachamama. Austrians Tommy Bonapace and Gerold Dünser christened these towers in 1992, when they made the first ascent.

1. Travesía Triología Inca

500m 6b A0

Tommy Bonapace and Gerold Dünser (Austria), 14/3/1992.

Description. Climb an obvious left leaning ramp on the southeast face of Aguja Cuatro Dedos, to reach a point 25 meters above the col between Cuatro Dedos and Inti. Descend to the col and climb snow and easy rock to the summit. The following two towers involve slabs and cracks close to the ridge itself, with several rappels in between. In all it involves 21 pitches with difficulties to 6b and one pendulum,

History. Bonapace and Dünser did the first ascent of these three towers and were responsible for christening them. They completed the ascent in 16 hours round trip. They had made two previous attempts, one of them with Brazilian climbing legend “Bito”.

Monnoyeur and Sourzac found several old fixed ropes in place. It is unclear who had previously attempted or climbed their variation.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Descend to the col south of Pachamama and from there straight down to the glacier.

Bibliography. AAJ 1993 p. 184-185; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14-21; High magazine 131 p. 17.

2. Monnoyeur-Sourzac

In 1999 French Laurence Monnoyeur and Bruno Sourzac climbed a variation to the summit Inti, climbing six pitches up a right leaning ramp leading to the col just south of the summit.

3. Cortísima

In 2010 Slovenes Grega Lacen and Tomaz Jakofcic climbed a short new route on Pachamama.

4. Ziggy Stardust

In early 2016 Lithuanians Gediminas Simutis and Saule Simute climbed a beautiful new route in the west face of Aguja Pachamama. “Ziggy Stardust” climbs nine pitches (300m) with difficulties to 6a. They used doubles to #2, and one each to #5, although the 5 was not mandatory. The name remembers the late David Bowie.