Cuatro Dedos (ca. 2200m).

1. Filo Norte
2. Cara Este
2.1 Travesía Tres Dedos
3. Fingerlicious

Description.

Louis Lliboutry, the glaciologist and geographer of the French 1952 expedition that did the first ascent of Fitz Roy, who made the first complete mapping of the area is responsible for the naming of this peak. It is named after its appearence. In Spanish “Cuatro Dedos” means four fingers.

Cuatro Dedos

1. Filo Norte

300m 55˚ 5 A1

Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse (UK), 24/1/1977.

Description. Approach via a couloir right of the east face. From the col between Cuatro Dedos and Aguja CAT climb 7 pitches that involve rock and mixed climbing, two of which are difficult.

History. Carrington and Rouse’s was the first ascent of the peak.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. The first ascensionists descended the northeast face, avoiding the ridge they had just climbed because it was too exposed to the wind in the conditions they encountered. Likely descending the route is an easier option.

Bibliography. Mountain magazine 58 p. 18-21; AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Climbing 47 p. 5-11.

Cuatro Dedos

2. Cara Este

450m 6a A0 55º

Tommy Bonapace and Toni Ponholzer (Austria), 17/9/1990.

Description. Climb an obvious couloir then traverse up and right, following the path of least resistance to the summit.

History. During an earlier attempt bad weather forced them to retreat one rope length from the top.

Approach. Niponino.

Bibliography. AAJ 1992 p. 90-94; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14-21.

Cuatro Dedos

2.1 Travesía Tres Dedos

450m 6b

Tommy Bonapace and Toni Ponholzer (Austria), 13/12/1990.

Description. Climb the obvious gully on the east face to reach the southern most of the four fingers and from its summit traverse north, climbing the following two.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. From the summit of the third finger rappel rappel back to the col, then down the east face.

Bibliography. AAJ 1992 p. 90-94; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14-21.

Cuatro Dedos

3. Fingerlicious

500m 6c M4

Chris Brazeau and Jon Walsh (Canada), Crystal Davis-Robbins (USA), January 2007.

History. Because it was a windy, cold morning, they started climbing at 1 PM, reaching the summit at 3:30 AM, under a calm, starry sky. They on-sighted every pitch, climbing the route in three blocks with the seconds following with jumars.

Description. Two mixed pitches lead to 11 clean pitches of mostly finger cracks, mixed with lots of face climbing and cryptic route finding. The climbing is sustained

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Via the same route.

Aguja CAT.

An expedition from Club Andino Tucuman, a mountain club in northern Argentina, named this tower sometime in the mid 1960s, during an attempt to climb Cerro Piergiorgio. It remained unclimbed until 2001! and it still has but one ascent to date.

Aguja CAT - East face

4. Mate Humo

350m 6a C1

Tommy Bonapace and Christian Zenz (Austria), 3/2001.

Description. The route climbs the east face. Eleven pitches.

History. This was the first ascent of the peak, in 2001!

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Via the same route.

Aguja CAT – Cuatro Dedos - "Tres Dedos" -Atchachila - Pachamama

5. Travesía Manos y Mas Manos

900m? 6c C1?

Mikey Schaefer and Josh Huckaby (US), 1/2013.

Description. Huckaby and Schaefer climbed Aguja CAT, then traversed south onto Aguja Cuatro Dedos, climbing all four fingers before descending to the col with Aguja Inti, climbing over Agujas Atchachila and Pachamama before descending. In all they climbed around 25 pitches (around 8 of them new) and made close to 40 rappels.

History. They took three days to complete this cool traverse, sleeping at the base of Aguja CAT, at the col between Cuatro Dedos and Inti and one last time in the descent. They named their traverse Manos y Mas Manos, a name that refers to all the hand jamming involved and also a play on words on the name Cuatro Dedos (four fingers).

Approach. Niponino.