Fitz Roy - West face


20. Historia sin Fin


850m 40˚ 6b+

Jorge Ackermann, Tomas Aguilo and Luciano Fiorenza (Argentina), 2/2010.

Description. The route starts right of a steep buttress just to the right of Supercanaleta’s bergschrund. Six pitches up and left, the last one in common with Ensueño, lead to a big ledge. From the ledge, where Ensueño heads left climb the left crack of a steep double crack system to a series of slabs. Here, three pitches from the ledge the route touches Ensueño again before heading right, climbing flakes and cracks immediately left of a scoop like system. Ten more pitches lead to easier ground, where the route joins No Brain No Pain and later Tonta Suerte and the Supercanaleta. Some of the rock is grainy but most of it is ok, offering fun free climbing. The climbing along the ridge, along Tonta Suerte and Supercanaleta is interesting, requiring weaving around gendarmes and other alpine trickery. Of the 40 pitches required to go from the bottom to summit (1600m altogether) 18 are unique to this route, the rest are from three other climbs that are joined along the way.

History. The route was climbed in alpine style over three days, one from Chalten to the big ledge six pitches up, another to the junction with No Brain No Pain and a third to reach the summit and descend the Franco-Argentina.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Gear. The first ascent party used no pitons and placed a single, at a belay.

Descent. Via the Francesa.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Roy north and west face

Fitz Roy west face

Fitz Roy west face

Fitz Roy west face