Cerro Techado Negro (ca. 2150m) &

Cerro Ñire.

1. Cara Este
2. Cara Sur
3. Cara Oeste
4. Cara Norte

Cerro Nire


This peaks is another good alternative for those looking for a summit with excellent views and fun classic mountaineering. Just as in the case with Mojon Rojo, it is surprising that this peak does not draw more people.

The routes mentioned below are mentioned mainly for the sake of keeping a historical record and not for their special interest as climbs. If you want to climb the peak, pick the best-looking line and enjoy yourself.

1. Cara Este

Sergio Bossini (Argentina), 28/2/1961.

Description. Following an easy route on the very rotten rock of the eastern face. His was the first ascent of the peak.

History. The original intention of this expedition was to recover Toni Egger’s body, but large amounts of snow and adverse conditions proved their efforts fruitless. However, they did manage to place a plaque in his memory at the base of Cerro Torre, not far from where he lost his life. The plaque was sent by the SAT from Trento. This expedition was only possible thanks to the help given by Tito Lucchini and Carlo Turrini (for other ascents accomplished during this expedition see below and Mojon Rojo).

Approach. From Laguna Sucia.

Bibliography. AAJ 1962 p. 263, CAI-Rivista Mensile 80/5-6 p. 179-180; Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo, Commissione Centrale delle Pubblicazioni, Club Alpino Italiano 1972/2 p. 838-839; Bolletino SAT 1961/1-2 p. 15; Bolletino SAT 1961/4 p. 13.

2. Cara Sur

Sergio Bossini, Juan Spikermann and Cesarino Fava (Argentina), 1/3/1961.

Description. A slightly more difficult line than the east face.

History. The original intention of this expedition was to recover Toni Egger’s body, but large amounts of snow and adverse conditions proved their efforts fruitless. However, they did manage to place a plaque in his memory at the base of Cerro Torre, not far from where he lost his life. The plaque was sent by the SAT from Trento. This expedition was only possible thanks to the help given by Tito Lucchini and Carlo Turrini (for other ascents accomplished during this expedition see below and Mojon Rojo).

Approach. From Laguna Torre.

Bibliography. AAJ 1962 p. 263, CAI-Rivista Mensile 80/5-6 p. 179-180; Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo, Commissione Centrale delle Pubblicazioni, Club Alpino Italiano 1972/2 p. 838-839; Bolletino SAT 1961/1-2 p. 15; Bolletino SAT 1961/4 p. 13.

3. Cara Norte

In late 2000, Germans Thomas Tivadar and Stephan Huber climbed a posible new route following the north pillar (600 meters, mostly easy with sections to 6a/50, with much loose rock). They christened their line “Rost Spur”.

Cerro Ñire

This peak is inmediately east of Cerro Techado Negro.

Argentine Sergio Bossini did the first ascent in 1961.

Description. Located just above the so called “Cascada Ruidosa” camp. This camp was used by numerous early expeditions to the area, of which Hans Zechner's was probably the first, and was located just before the now defunct “Maestri” camp.

Bibliography. Bolletino SAT 1961/1-2 p. 15.

In December of 1986 Maurizio Giordani climbed one of Cerro Ñire's pillars, the one closest to Techado Negro. He approached from Maestri camp, climbing the west ridge, covering 200 meters with difficulties to 5. He christened the pillar "Pilastro Aldo e Carlo Tartarotti" after two brothers from Trento, northern Italy, who were keen mountaineers with a particular soft spot for the Dolomites.  Aldo was in the military and later worked across Europe for the Compagnia Italiana Turismo, a government agency charged with promoting the country as a tourist destination, while Carlo dedicated his professional life to banking. Upon Aldo's death, his sister Alice Tartarotti, a musician and founder of the Tartarotti Foundation for Music, made a donation to the SAT, the Trento mountain club, to honor the memory of her two brothers.