Aguja Guillaumet - East face

25. MacLeod-Muskett

150m M8?

Dave MacLeod and Callum Muskett (GB), early 2014.

Description. Climbs a line on the pillar to the right of the Amy-Vidailhet Couloir. It was climbed as a mixed line, in "winter" conditions, with much rime, snow and iced-up cracks. The climbing proved very sustained with several pitches of Scottish grade 8 (they climbed six short pitches which they gave the following Scottish grades: 3, 6, 8, 7, 8, 8). The first ascensionists describe the route as awesome and believe that in Chamonix it would be a classic.

In "summer", dry conditions this line would likely offer climbing with difficulties no higher than 6b. That said, it is unlikely to become popular as a rock route because it cannot rival the quality of the nearby Brenner-Moschioni.

History. Terrible snow conditions on the Glaciar Superior is what led the first ascensionists to look at this face. They had originally intended to go to the east face of Aguja Mermoz.

Approach. Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Descent. Descend the route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face